WINES OF PORTRUGAL
Portugal is a southern European country in the Iberian Peninsula bordering Spain and the Atlantic Ocean. It has many indigenous grape varietals as well as different climates, regions and ways of producing both still and fortified wines. From the islands of Madeira to Porto, in Northern Portugal, there are grapes growing aplenty. The Isles of Madeira boast spectacular ocean views from mountain ranges, and offer up its namesake, the fortified wine Madeira. Madeira is comprised of 4 islands off the northwest coast of Africa and was claimed by Portugal in the early 1400’s. Madeira can be sweet or dry with concentrated flavors and aromas. It undergoes a unique process that heats and oxidizes the wine. These fortified wines are under the Madeira DOC and non-fortified or table wines are sold under the VR, Vinho Regional distinction.
The Douro Wine region came to be much later, around the 1750’s, but phylloxera affected wine production and the region was not again fully commercial until the 19th Century. The Douro River Valley separates Spain from Portugal for nearly 70 miles. There are 14 government recognized wine regions in Portugal. The Peninsula de Setubal is known for its Setubal Moscatel, often called “sun in a bottle”, another popular Portuguese fortified wine, and is similar in style to that of Sherry which is produced in Spain. Portuguese Setubal Moscatel tastes of lychee, candied orange, lemon and raisin.
Casal Garcia Vinho Verde- One of the most popular white wines of Portugal, with its own DOC “Denominaceo de Origem Controlada” originating in the historic Minho Province in the far north. Vinho Verde literally means “green wine” however, it does not refer to the color, but to the age- as it is usually consumed within 3 to 4 months after bottling. The Vinho Verde region was created by law in 1908, even though grape growing there dates back to Roman times. Alvarinho is the main varietal used to make this light, refreshing white, along with Loureiro, which is often blended in. The wine can have a frizzante’ characteristic with flavors of tropical fruit and melon. I give it two bones.
Quinta de Chocapalpha Vino Tinto- A family estate since 1987 by the Tavares de Silva family, just north of Libson in the Lisboa wine region. This property has been growing grapes since the Romans 2nd Century BC. Maritime influences and chalky clay soils with a limestone predominance make for wines of interest. Indigenous grapes like Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Castelao, Syrah, Touriga Franca, Alicante Bouschet, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Verdot are all grown on the 60 hectare estate. This Vino Tinto is a blend of Tinta Roris, Touriga Nacional and Syrah aged for twenty months in French oak. Black fruit and some floral notes, with rich, ripe tannins. The wine has a long, fruit filled cocoa finish. I give it three bones.
Herdade Do Rocim Amphorae- Located in the lower half of Portugal in the Alentejo Region, between Cuba and Vidiguera lies the estate of Herdade Do Rocim, on almost 200 hectares. The climate is continental with hot summers and cold winters, but grapes do well amid cork trees, olive groves and wheat, the most important crop in the area. This wine is aged in Amphorae, a clay pot, after the grapes are picked, then placed in the clay vessel with skins and stalks, then sealed to ferment naturally with the wild yeasts. The clay allows for subtle amounts of oxygen and a neutral environment (unlike aging in wood barrels, no flavors are imparted) less Sulphur is needed and the wine is more “natural”. This red blend is made of mostly Tempranillo, (known as Aragonez in Portugal) Trincadeira, Moreto and Tinta Grossa. Flavors of blackberries, dark juicy plums and sour jam. These grapes are naturally acidic and the wine ends with fresh minerality balanced by a velvety finish. This is one to try- I give it three bones.
Maynard’s Late Bottle Vintage 2016 Porto- Port is a fortified wine, made in many different styles, including red, white, rose’ and even aged Tawny. Made from indigenous Portuguese varietals, each grape adds it’s own unique flavor and style. Port is made by adding a distilled spirit – usually grape based, such as brandy, to the wine; a process known as fortifying. Port comes from the Douro Valley, in Oporto, a DOC, and not unlike Champagne, only wines produced there can declare “Porto” on the label.
Walter Maynard was known to be the oldest wine merchant to ship Port across the ocean back in the 1600’s; an illustrious ancestor of the Van Zeller’s who own the company that produces Maynard’s today. Their 2016 LBV has aged gracefully, with an auburn tint to the caramel color, it is quite robust with black fruit flavors and an endless finish of tobacco and wood. I give it three bones.
Izidro Madeira Full Rich NV- Made with a blend of young grapes such as Sercial, Tinta Negra Mole, and Verdelho, then submitted to the unique heating process known as Estufagem, with strict traditional methods. This Madeira is aged in oak casks and has great acidity. Most often thought of as an after dinner drink, this one pairs with cheeses and nuts, and is definitely full and rich, with aromas of coffee and caramel. I give it two bones.
Portugal has so many varietals, regions and flavor profiles there’s so much to explore- come by the store and we will happily show you the many wines available from this distinctive and interesting country. See you soon!
By Brunello Giancola as told to CRBrown
