White Italian Varietals

It is widely believed that grape harvesting and winemaking traditions were well established in Italy and Sicily prior to 1000 BC. Known as Bianco, white wine grapes flourish in many regions of the Italian countryside. Let’s explore a few.

Arneis-Piedmonte, once nicknamed the White Barolo, aromatic, pear, apricot, chamomile and almonds. The name translates to “Little Rascal” as it is difficult to grow, and was almost extinct in the 1970’s.

Cataratto- Sicily, known for its role in Marsala production, it is a high yielding varietal, and when made well can exhibit juicy lemon flavors.

Cortese- the varietal that makes Gavi di Gavi, from Piedmonte, exhibits flavors of Meyer Lemon, apple, honeydew melon and almond.

Falanghina from Campania Region dates back to Roman times, can have a slight pine scent, but bursts with citrus blossom and bitter orange on the nose. Flavors of zesty peach and soft minerality.

Fiano- Campania, can also be labeled Fiano di Avellino, has a rich texture and can stand to age. The nose is honeydew melon and tart Asian pear with subtle Pine and orange peel on the palate.

Friuliano – grown in the hills of Collio and the Friulia Venezia region is “formerly known as” Tocai Friuliano or Sauvignon Vert and even Sauvignonasse from northeastern Italy. These wines are lively and fruity with notes of citrus. Much confusion surrounded the grape name and labeling, because it is NOT Sauvignon Blanc. Due to a legal struggle with the name Tocai, Tokay and Tokaj, the European Court ruled that Tocai be dropped in Italian. So Friuliano is simply that, a lovely herbal expression with slight grapefruit on the nose, leaning toward pear and white peach with essence of stone.

Garganega- Soave a medieval town in Northern Italy shows luscious nectar, stone fruit and a soft mellow finish of baked apples. Recently DNA profiling has linked the grape to that of Grecanico Dorato of Sicily. Soave Classico has its own DOC.

Glera- Fruili produces most of Italy’s Prosecco grape, a neutral varietal made in frizzante (sparkling wine) style. The Prosecco – Glera name changed in 2009 when Prosecco was given full DOCG status (Italy’s highest quality level). Similar to Champagne only being allowed to say it is Champagne when from that particular region, the EU made it illegal for wine producers to label Prosecco anywhere outside northern Italy. Researchers suggest there are several sub varieties, and Glera is also grown in Slovenia and Australia.

Grillo, Etna Bianco – primarily grown in Sicily produces crisp and savory wines with nuances of citrus blossom and peach. Grillo is the result of a crossing between Cataratto and Moscato di Alessandria, and is used in the fortified Marsala (also grows well in that region) but when vinified by high standards, is fruit driven with a nuttiness and lemon peel finish.

Lugana-DOC – Lombardy, made with Turbiana, a variety native to the southern shores of Lake Garda, it is also produced as a late harvest and sparkling wine. Crisp and floral with citrus and white stone. More that 5,000 acres are under vine in the Lugana Region, with its white clay soils that produce concentrated flavors and textures in the wines.

Malvasia Bianca has an ancient heritage and is found growing throughout the Mediterranean. There are dozens of native synonyms, but the name Malvasia is believed to have derived from the Greek town of Monemvasia. Often paired with Trebbiano in Italy for fine quaffable table wine, it is grown in Emilia Romagna and offered as a sparkling wine with a slightly pink hue. And in Southern Italy the grapes are vinified into Passito- a late harvest dessert wine.

Pecorino- another indigenous white variety that has been rescued from obscurity, grown widely in Abruzzo and Marche’ regions. The name pecorino means little sheep, and although Pecorino is widely associated with the cheese, the wine offers a high acid and high sugar content making for a ripe essence of jasmine and lemon blossom, with flavors of peach, apricot and pear.

Pinot Grigio is planted worldwide- also known as Pinot Gris, and was thought to be a mutation of Pinot Noir (a red grape) as the skins of Pinot Grigio are darker and Grigio and Gris mean grey. Though born in Burgundy the wine made its way to Switzerland, Austria and Slovenia. The Italian version of this popular and easy drinking varietal is grown mostly in the northeast, Veneto, Friuli and Trentino. A well-made Pinot Grigio will not come from the bottom shelf in a jug, it will show citrus flavors, lime and lemon, with undertones of apple and mineral.

Ribolla Gialla is yet another ancient wine variety from the north, Friuli, bordering Slovenia, offering a light body, with fruity characteristics baked apple, tangerine, and a slight waxy texture. It stands up to fried foods and acidic salad dressings.

Timarosso- Piedmonte- when used to produce Derthona is complex with honeyed mineral notes and ageability. Colli Tortonesi wines are often labeled Derthona which is the native dialect for the name of the town, and Timarosso is awaiting DOC status at this moment.

Trebbiano- also known as Ugni Blanc, is one of the most widely planted grapes around the globe. Its high acidity make it a variety important to Cognac and Armagnac in France. Most commonly grown and used in wines of Orvieto, Umbria, and Trebbiano di Soave. Trebbiano grapes are also used to make Balsamic Vinegar.

Vernacchia- grown in the Tuscan hills, this crisp white is elegant, and is responsible for the region’s only DOCG white which is Vernaccia di San Gimignano. The varietal dates back to the 13th century as a wine served to popes and royalty. Not to be confused with a red grape grown in Marche’ called Veranccia di Serrapetrona- which is also a DOCG, and in Sardinia there is Vernaccia di Oristano, and are not to be considered synonymous.

Verdicchio—Predominantly grown in Marche’ where the wine is appreciated for its peach and lemon characteristics. The varietal has been documented in the Marche’ since the 14th century, however, some evidence suggests it could have originated in the Veneto. The Marche’ has two DOC titles for Verdicchio and its synonyms include Soave and Lugana- DNA research suggests the grapes are identical. Light in body with flavors of green apple and pear, and aromas of peach, it can also be aged in barrique and gives off a honey, nutty flavor.

Vermentino- Sardinia, from Liguria tends to be lighter in style with citrus notes, but also a bitter note reminiscent of grapefruit skin, and ends with flavors of apricots and almonds and a touch of salinity. Though planted throughout the islands of Sardinia, the grape is known as Rolle in southern France’s isle of Corsica. Aromas of pear, pink grapefruit, and lime, with touches of crushed rocks and a slight saline finish from the proximity of the sea.

Stop by and peruse our Italian wine section and we’ll be happy to show any of these varietals available at many different price points. Whether you are sitting and sipping on a sunny afternoon, or pairing with a great dish, we’ve got you covered!

By CR Brown