The Wines of Spain
Continuing our virtual wine tour around the globe, this month we fly into Spain. The country is approximately the size of Texas, with about double the population, and is the largest country in southern Europe, a part of the Iberian Peninsula. Spain has many diverse wine growing regions (over 138 to date) controlled by government regulations and guidelines for labeling and production. Situated between Portugal to the west and France’s Basque country to the northwest. Like most European countries, Spain is rich in history, with historic castles, and ancient ruins; grape growing historically dates back to Roman monks. Originally conquered by the ancient Romans, the country is lush with vineyards- nearly 2 ½ million acres planted to vine. Spanish wine is considered “economical” as much of the wine produced there is sold for bulk. Over 900 million gallons of wine is made and sold in Spain per year on average, and the cost remains low because much of the 600 indigenous varietals grown there do not command world attention. However, the regions are diverse, and many wines do command higher prices as their quality, and value on the world wine stage increases.
The Northern Mediterranean Coast features Cava, Priorat, and Montsant regions, with varietals such as Carignan, Garnacha, Macabeau, and Xarello. Cava is Spain’s sparkling wine, produced with in-bottle fermentation, similar to Champagne.
If you fly into Barcelona, Catalonia wine country is only 90 miles from the city center. A high speed train, the AVE can get you to Madrid in under three hours, which makes navigating the wine country a bit easier. The Northwest wine regions include, Rias Baixas, Ribeira Sacra, Bierzo, and Txakolina. The preeminent grapes here are Tempranillo, Mencia, Albarino and Godello. In the famous Ebro and Duero River valleys (north of Madrid) are Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Toro, Rueda and Carinena, with more common varietals such as Tempranillo, Garnacha, Verdejo and Viura. Toward the south are the popular Jumilla and Yecla (closer to Valencia) regions with Monastral and Malvasia grapes grown there.
If you’re not up on your Spanish geography, that’s okay, the key points you should know on reading a wine label from Spain include the government guidelines to aging:
A Crianza is a wine aged 1 year with at least 6 months in oak barrel.
A Reserva is aged for at least 2 years with 12 months in oak.
Grand Reserva is aged 4 years with at least 12 months in oak.
White varietals to be on the look out for and try are Albarino, Godello, Verdejo, and Garnacha Blanc. A few red varietals to seek out are Tempranillo, Garnacha, Carignan, Monastral, and Mencia.
Finally, the government classifications are from top to bottom, as follows:
VP – Vina de Pago, only 17 sub regions qualify for this special delineation, the word Pago meaning “estate”.
DOCa – Denominacion de Origen Calificada, this is the next highest level wine appellation, the region must have been a DO for at least ten years. Currently only Rioja and Priorat carry this delineation.
DO – Denominacion de Origen, the most wineries fall under this category, and a number of quality standards must be met to achieve DO status, including the use of authorized grape varieties. There are currently 67 DO regions.
VC – Vino de Calidad con Indicacion Geografica, this designation is on the ladder to the DO status, an area must have VC status for at least 5 years before they can apply for DO status.
VT -Vino de la Tierra, this is the only label under the European Union’s “Protected” status of Protected Geographic Indication category, and represent wines produced with certain characteristics inherent to a certain region.
Vino de Espana, these are wines produced without any specific indication, but are authorized to list country of origin, grape varietal, and harvest year.
We must mention The Canary Islands, home to Malvasia grapes and Andalusia (part of the famous “Sherry Triangle” -that’s another blog!) to the south, where Manzanilla and Amontillado produce sherry, an aged sweet wine that is Spain’s most famous!
Come try some Spanish bargains, or even a great DO from our selections.
Bodegas Avancia Godello From the Valdeorras DO, this historic white wine varietal has aromas of pear and white flowers, with a crisp minerality. I give it three bones.
Bodegas Gardina Garnacha Located in the village of Borja in the Zaragoza region, the grapes are hand picked and spent 15 to 22 months aging in French oak barrels. Elegant with aromas of spice and licorice, flavors of dark plum and cocoa. I give it three bones.
Juan Gil Red Blend From the region of Jumilla, this winery was built in 1916 by Juan Jiminez, now run by grandson, Juan Gil Gonzalez. A rich fruity nose with blackberry fruit, dark cherry and smoke. The wine is mostly made from the Monastral grape, with some Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. I give it two bones.
There’s so much to explore, you can travel the world by walking around the aisles of the store here at Ed’s. Don’t forget to give me a pat on the head, or bring a cookie to my cousin Miles, the black Poodle who has been coming in lately. We love dog biscuits! See you soon.
By Brunello Giancola as told to CRBrown
