The History of Chateuneuf du Pape (CDP)
The literal translation of Chateauneuf du Pape is “the Pope’s New Castle” in reference to the castle built by Pope John XXII in the 14th Century. The castle was a summer residence for the popes who lived in Avignon. The name comes from Latin “Castro” which was used in the 11th century describing a “fortified village”. Du Pape was added in the late 1800’s to refer to its religious history.
Religion has played a key role in viticulture, for instance, the early Romans had Bacchus, and the Greeks with Dionysus; credited with creating what we currently enjoy as table wine. In Biblical times wine was consumed as part of the “everyday diet”, for celebrations, and as a symbol of blessing. The Catholic church has, throughout history, kept wine alive. In scripture in the Old and New Testament there are references to vineyards, grapes and wine. There is even a reference to Noah getting drunk on wine he had made after the flood! Jesus feasted and turned water into wine, and wine is used by the church for communion and other holy celebrations and sacrifices.
Bishops are credited with saving vineyards after the fall of the Roman Empire, among their many other miracles. The Cistern Monks produced wine, and the creation of the great Champagne Dom Perignon is credited to a French Benedictine Monk. Jesuits are credited with bringing their “mission wine grapes” to California from Mexico, and we all know how many California wineries survived Prohibition with the loopholes of the 18th amendment making viticulture for religious purposes legal.
The Avignon Papacy move from Rome to France had just a little bit to do with the quality of French grapes, specifically those grown in the CDP region.
At the time, wine growing around Avignon was not illustrious, however, the popes advanced the reputation of the area, which had been a viticultural area the Bishops maintained for the church, and mostly local consumption. The keys and the crown emblem – the symbol of the coat of arms of the Holy See, which is the government of the Catholic church under the pope, is often embossed into the glass of wine bottles produced in Chateauneuf du Pape.
The village sits in the south of the Rhone Valley, bordering Provence. The AOC or Appellation d’Origine Controlee was established in 1936 as France’s first AOC.
There were only 13 varietals originally permitted to be grown and used in the wine, but this has since expanded to 18. The permitted reds include Syrah, Cinsault, Grenache Noir, Counoise, Mourvedre, Muscardin, Piquepoul Noir, Terret Noir, and Vaccarese. The whites and “pinks” are Bourboulenc, Clairette Blanche, Clairette Rose, Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, Piquepoul Blanc, Piquepoul Gris, Picardan, and Roussanne. The soil is unique, with large, rolled pebbles mixed with red, sandy clay- which release the heat they store during the day to the vines at night. The climate is hot and dry with the famous Mistral winds that blow 130 days a year, and the vines are typically bushy, known as garrigue, on shallow soils. The wines emit earthy tones and tart flavors unique to the region. Winemakers have complete freedom to process any of the varietals as they see fit, though the usual blend is made from mostly Grenache Noir, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, and Syrah. The traditional CDP, as it is known, can age for decades, however, many of the more modern highly alcoholic CDP produced can be rich and wonderful in their youth, only to disappoint years later.
Here at Ed’s we carry a few CDP on the shelf and are able to order from some of the most boutique producers. Let us know!
Domaine Raymond Usseglio Chateauneuf Du Pape Founded in 1963, the Usseglio family has Italian roots dating back to Piedmonte. Grandfather Francis left Italy for France in 1931. After more than 15 years of working the fields, in 1948 he succeeded in operating a sharecropping farm with his wine. In 1962 Terres Blanches terroir was planted and in 1963 Raymond took over with his wife Danielle. The Domain covers 15 hectares with 50 to 60 year old vines in CDP. They practice both organic and biodynamic farming, believing every bottle is an expression of the earth and their meticulous practices. A blend of mostly Grenache Noir with a small amount of Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault and Counoise sourced from the four main terroirs of the appellation-sands, sandstone, clay/limestone and the famous rounded pebbles. 80% of the blend is aged in concrete with the remainder aging in oak. Ripe red cherry and raspberry fruits blend with spicy notes of black pepper and licorice. Full bodied with a silky texture. This wine should be decanted and will age gracefully. We give it three bones.
Chateua Maucoil Chateueuf du Pape Vines were planted in what we now know as Chateau Maucoil in the 1600’s. Today, 36.5 hectares are used for CDP production, managed by a negotiant. Certified biodynamic, the wine is 60% Grenache Noir, 15% Syrah, 12% Mourvedre, 8% Cinsault, with various other approved varietals in the blend, aged for 12 months in oak barrels before bottling. We give it two bones.
Fontaines des Papes Made from 50% Grenache Noir, 40% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre this wine had a complex nose of plum and black cherry. With hints of cocoa and cloves. Owned by the Jaume family, we give it two bones.
Mathieu Jerome SAJE Chateauneuf du Pape The Mathieu family is one of the oldest in the village, dating back to the 1600’s, however, the Domain was founded in 2015. SAJE is an abbreviation of the names of Jerome, and his wife and son. It’s also a play on words, as the French word for sage, which means the same in English, to be wise. Jerome inherited 9.5 hectares (about 23 acres) and plants all 13 original permitted varietals. There is diversity in terroir and grape variety that shines through in his bottlings. The wine is mostly Grenache Noir with only around 1300 cases produced annually – a nod to tradition. The wine should be decanted and will age. Provencal herbs and spice with bright cranberry and cherry fruit, with a biting tannic finish. We give it three bones.
Matteo Pictor Pape Rich in style with bold black fruits, this biodynamic winery was founded in 1967. The Chateau is located in the hills of the Lirac across from CDP. The wines are often praised for their depth of complexity, aromatic intensity and silky tannins. Black raspberry and candied lavender. This wine is best enjoyed now. We give it two bones.
If you’ve never had the pleasure of experiencing this unique wine from this special area, stop in and we will find one for you. Cheers to the wines of the Pope!
By CRBrown
