ROSE’ RENAISSANCE
Though Summer just began, we have been in the throes of heat domes and unprecedented drought, followed by flooding rainstorms, followed by more heat and humidity. One of the most refreshing wine choices for our Florida Summer weather is rose’. The pink stuff is produced all over the world and in nearly every style, from frizzante (carbonated or natural bubbles) to sec (sweet) dry, to fruity, and then some. Thanks to social media and hashtag rose’ all day, today rose’ accounts for 9% of overall global wine consumption.
The history of pink wines dates back to, you guessed it, the Greeks and Romans. Production and consumption of rose’ dates to circa 600 BC, when often dark, astringent, and tannic wines were literally watered down to become more palatable, and to decrease sickness and disease caused by unhealthy (unsanitary) water. In fact, Roman soldiers were often rationed wine to drink to keep them strong and healthy to fight battles.
Eventually, the Romans had settled into France and made their way south to Provence where rose’ wine was popular for centuries around the Mediterranean. Provence became the unofficial epicenter of rose’, along with Tavel in the Rhone. Red wine varieties are harvested, and then set to ferment on the skins- sometimes for days, sometimes for mere hours, affecting the color and structure of the wine. Rose’ can be almost as structured and tannic as any lighter style red wine, and hold up well to certain dishes. It can also be barely colored – a new trend in Pinot Grigio, which effects the body of the wine, and makes for some very interesting Rosado. However, the popularity of rose’ had some hiccups along the way.
In the late 1940’s an American wine merchant traveled to Portugal, eventually importing what would become the famous Lancer’s Rose’- a slightly sweet, refreshing wine marketed in a clay pot looking bottle. This was followed a few years later by Mateus. The two brands became synonymous with sweet, pink, inexpensive wine made in bulk.
In 1869 in Lodi, CA a winemaker, George West, the Viticultural Commissioner at the time, (at El Pinal Winery) began advocating for “pink” Zinfandel, extracting the juice from the grapes off the skins, but struggled for over a century to sell it commercially. In 1972 Bob Trinchero, winemaker at Sutter Home Winery in
Sonoma, was experimenting, trying to make a more intense red Zinfandel wine from his grapes in Amador County. He bled off the juice from his first tank and fermented the wine separately. When the fermentation became “stuck” (during the process the fermentation ceases, the yeast prematurely goes dormant) so he took the juice, put it in barrel and walked away. A few weeks later upon tasting and observing, the wine was pink, slightly sweet, and as Bob says “…pretty good. So, I bottled it.” The initial bottling was about 200 cases, and Bob decided to call it “White Zinfandel” believing it sounded more American than other, similar brands on the market. By 1976 White Zinfandel had become a unique American craze, which continued for over a decade, as a style not unlike that of the imported bulk juice.
Meanwhile, serious wine drinkers wanted nothing to do with the pink stuff. “Real men don’t drink pink” was a catchphrase. The French were still producing their rose’ in a dry style, and production and consumption in France nearly tripled between 1990 and 2015. It would take over a decade for the French trend to catch up here. Other trailblazers who began introducing dryer style rose’ to the American market were Toad Hollow in Sonoma, Etude and Robert Sinskey in Napa, Wolffer Estate in NY, and Erath in Oregon.
In France, most rose’ is made by direct press method. In Tavel- a world famous region known only for rose’, the wine is often not drawn off or bled (saignee method) but macerated on the skins for 6 to 72 hours, giving the wine greater color, weight and structure. The terroir of Tavel is unique and the wines have age ability, but are much pricier than their worldly counterparts.
In the early 2000’s Americans were starting to get a taste for a dryer style of pink with celebrities like Angelina Jolie and Brad Bitt, and Drew Barrymore, and Mary J Blige getting into the game of producing rose’. Eventually the likes of “Yes Way Rose” and “Whispering Angel” hit the market, and now the rose’ options on the shelf are endless. Nearly every country produces a rose’, in every style imaginable. Let’s explore some options from all over the planet!
Lambrusco is the name of a grape variety and the name of the wine made from the same grape, originating in Lombardy, in Emilia Romagna, Italy. There are eight DOC – Denominazione di Origine Controllata for Lambrusco. In the 1970’s and 80’s Lambrusco was one of the biggest selling imported wines in the states. Today
there are varying levels of sweetness and dryness. The wine is often frizzante, rarely ever made in the traditional champagne method, but in the Charmat method, where a second fermentation is conducted in a pressurized tank. The Charmat method is considerably less expensive to produce and therefore the bottles are reasonably priced on the shelf. Recently, a trend in the world of wine snobs (we love them!) and sommeliers are falling back in love with the grape and resurgence in popularity for Lambrusco is here. We love the Cantina DI Sorbara Lambrusco Emma the Cantina is an agricultural cooperative that was founded by two historic companies. Deep rose color with aromas of berries, fruit and flowers, and a consistent froth. This Lambrusco is a great apéritif or even with fruity dessert and chocolate. We give it three bones.
Born out of a partnership with Gerard Bertrand, whose group pf wineries span many regions of France, along with Jesse and John Bon Jovi, Hampton Water Rose’ is made with Grenache, Cinsault, Mourvèdre and Syrah grapes, aged briefly in French oak barrels, giving it a slightly heavier character than a traditional French Rose’. Notes of strawberry and citrus with a lingering finish. We give it two bones.
We can’t discuss French Rose’ without the celebs that helped start the rose’ craze; Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie. The couple (before they famously split) vacationed and eventually bought a castle in Provence, France, and became friendly with the winery team at Perrin from the Cotes du Rhone. In 2013 Chateau Miraval Rose’ was introduced with immediate success. Pitt is still a partner and has produced other wines and even a gin, and Miraval continues to be a success. We give it three bones.
Send Nudes Rose’ is an affordable choice from California. 100% rose’ of Pinot Noir, the color is light rose gold, with flavors of spring strawberry, candied watermelon, and white grapefruit. Our friend the winemaker Brandon Allen created Slo Down Wines from his love of wine and zest for adventure as a college student making wine in his garage in California. We give it two bones.
Pullus Pinot Grigio made in Prodravje, Solvenia is a perfect example of a rosado that is still in the category of “white wine”, however, it shows a rosy, copper hue which is typical of overripe macerated pinot grigio grapes. The intense bouquet and long aftertaste come from extended maceration on the skins, and a creamy aftertaste comes from resting on the lees. We give this wine three bones.
Another example of worldwide pink wine acclaim is the beautiful bottling by Babylonstoren Mourvedre Rose’ of South Africa. Strawberries and rose petals on the nose with a hint of watermelon and crushed pomegranate. The winery is a pioneer for award-winning world-class wines out of the Cape, and the winery is located on a working farm. Mourvèdre is a Rhone grape that grows well throughout the world, even the Mediterranean climate near Cape Town. We give it three bones.
Don’t shy away from rose’ just because it’s pink. A great guide to get you started is to try one from a winery you already know and love, or a country or region. Like Spanish wines? try a rose’ made from Garnacha. Enjoy Argentine Malbec? Try a rose’ of Malbec. Provence may have been the beginning of serious dry rose’ consumption, but quality, chillable pink juice is everywhere. Our staff is here to help guide you to what could be a perfect pairing with your dinner, or just a pool side quaff to cheer you. Stay cool and see you soon!
By CRBrown
