PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO
It’s Summer, it’s hot, and other than a cold beer after just a short time outdoors, we can only appreciate light, white, refreshing wines at this time. Let’s explore the Pinot Gris/Grigio varietal, which is virtually the same, thought to be a mutant clone of the Pinot Noir grape. Pinot Noir, you ask? Isn’t that a red wine grape? Indeed, it is, but Pinot Gris and Grigio are white wines born out of a grayish color grape, not really red, but not green, either. Researchers determined that Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir have very similar DNA, with literally the color of the grape being the only distinction.
Pinot Gris was known in Burgundy, France since around the Middle Ages, and has been grown in Switzerland, Germany, and Austria, and then became known as Pinot Grigio in Italy. Pinot Grigio flourishes in regions of Northern Italy like Lombardy, Alto Adige, Friuli and the Veneto. The varietal Pinot Gris, as mentioned, originated by the French is also referred to as Pinot Gris in some parts of the New World- Oregon uses Pinot Gris, as do some California, New Zealand and South African wineries on their labels. The varietal shows great variety based on terroir, where the grapes come from, as well as the winemaker’s style.
Alsatian style Pinot Gris can be spicy and more full bodied, where Italian Pinot Grigio tends to be lighter and more acidic. Flavors can range from tropical fruit and melon to citrus, lemon and carry a nutty finish.
In Switzerland in the 1300’s Emperor Charles IV reportedly took a liking to the grape variety, and had cuttings sent to Hungary via the Cistercian Monks. They referred to the wine as “Szurkebarat” which translates to “grey monk”. Gris and Grigio loosely translate to “grey” an apt description of the color of the grape. Today there are a few Pinot Grigio producers that are bottling the wine after a small amount of maceration with the skins- literally a pink Pinot Grigio, called Ramato.
Pinot Gris/Grigio is grown in nearly every wine producing country in the world, however, Alsatian Pinot Gris is where it began. Alsace is located in Northeastern France, and is an AOC, Appellation d’Origine Controlee for wines specific to a region, governed by the French. It was declared an AOC in 1962, however, grape growing and wine making date back to the 600’s in this area. Known for the terroir that is graphite and slate, and the famous Vosges Mountains that shield the vineyards from wind and rain. Alsace is one of the most famous wine regions in the world for its white wine varieties.
Gustave Lorentz Reserve Pinot Gris Alsace, France The House of Lorentz is still family operated since 1836. The grapes are sourced from a tiny village, Begheim from calcerous hillsides. The juice is free run, fermentation is with natural and selected yeasts, and separated from the lees. A nose of fresh melon and hints of dried apricot, medium bodied with balanced acidity. This wine will age up to 8 years. We give it three bones.
In Italy the Pinot Grigio grape is usually picked much earlier than Pinot Gris in France, so the wines are more tart and acidic. Over 150 million bottles of Pinot Grigio are exported annually, and more than half of Pinot Grigio produced globally is grown in Italy. The Italians have been producing the wine since the late 1300’s.
Jermann Pinot Grigio Friuli, Italy This winery’s roots go back to a tiny village in between Austria and Slovenia, where Stefanus Jermann grew grapes. Eventually, Anton Jermann settled in Friuli in 1881, and today Silvio Jermann is producing some of the most adored and critically acclaimed Italian Pinot Grigio in the world. Friuli borders Austria, Slovenia and the Adriatic Sea, the region was once an important stop along the Mediterranean Spice Route. The climate is ideal for crisp white grape growing, with the sharp Dolomite Mountains, and most vineyards facing south along the foothills of the Alps. Most appellations in the region require 100% of the varietal to be in the bottle. The bouquet on this Jermann Pinot Grigio is fruity and elegant with just a touch of almonds, and a hint of citrus and spice, honey, peach, and apple blossoms. We give it three bones.
David Lett from Eyrie Vineyards was the first American to plant Pinot Gris in Oregon in 1965. The wine was a slow mover until the 1990’s when the King family started marketing their Willamette Pinot Gris. There are approximately 1600 acres of Pinot Gris planted in Central and South Coastal regions of California, where it is often called Pinot Grigio, as the style is more closely associated with the Italian style; more acidic. Pinot Gris is also grown in Ohio where it is considered part of the American “Pinot Trail”.
King Estate Domaine Pinot Gris Willamette Valley, Oregon Founded in 1991 by the King family, with a commitment to sustainability, King Estate is the largest certified Biodynamic winery in North America. Set on nearly 300 acres, the wines are handcrafted with “Domaine” wines representing the best of the best from the prestigious Willamette Valley. Aromas of lemon, white peach, and ripe pear; there is honeysuckle, damp slate and crème brulee’. The wine is aged for 6 months on the lees after stainless steel fermentation. We give it two bones.
Sun Goddess by Mary J Blige Pinot Grigio Ramato, Friuli, Italy The word Ramato means auburn or copper in Italian, the wine is produced with the skins, and the hue can range from pale pink to copper depending on the maceration time. Mary J Blige partnered with the Fantinel Winery to create this exceptional Sun Goddess Pinot Grigio, hints of melon and berries with a soft, mineral finish. We give it two bones.
In the “New World” Pinot Gris/Grigio comprises almost 100,000 acres according to a 2018 poll. South Africa is the 9th largest wine producing market in the world. Known mostly for their signature red varietal Pinotage, the country has been producing wines of exceptional quality since the 17th century.
Craven Pinot Gris Stellenbosch, South Africa The “Newlands Vineyard” was planted in Stellenbosch by Mick and Jeanine Craven. The couple, originally from Australia, met while working in Sonoma, CA. They started Craven in 2014 where the Pinot Gris grape grows well.
Showing a lovely copper tone to the color after six days on the skins; also aged in neutral oak barrels after five months concrete tank aging. There is a lively strawberry, cherry and herb flavor with a savory characteristic. We give it two bones.
Whether it’s Italian or California Pinot Grigio or Pinot Gris from Oregon, France or South America or South Africa, each wine will reflect both the terroir where it was grown and the individual winemaker’s touch. Stop by and we’ll help you make some selections to try.
Salud!
By CRBrown
