Greek Wine
Oph! Greece, it’s where it all started, right? Grape growing, viticulture, winemaking and distribution. Almost 7,000 years ago the Greeks were transporting homemade wines (and olives and olive oil) up and down the Mediterranean. This helped Greece not only establish itself as a country, it affected winemaking cultures along the trade route; the Celts, Etruscans and ultimately the Romans.
In Greek Mythology, Dionysus, the son of Zeus and his mistress Semele, invented wine while living in Mount Nysa. Naoussa, located on the slopes of Mount Vermion, was the first AOC (Appellation Orgine Controlee’) in Greece. It is believed the very first recognized wine varietal was Lemnio- once described by Aristotle as “a specialty of the island of Limnios”. The modern day Lemnio exudes the aromatics of oregano and thyme.
There are over 300 indigenous Greek wine varietals including their popular red varietal Xinomavro (zeen yah mahv ro). This varietal has often been haled as the Barolo of Greece. It has dark cherry fruit and big tannins. Xinomavro blends can sometimes even show an essence of tomato, fennel and anise.
Agiorgitiko (ah your yeek teek oh) another red varietal from Nemea, a region in the Peloponnese, shows full bodied wines that range in flavors from raspberry to plum and black currant, always with a hint of spice, anise or oregano on the finish. The wines are great to pair with foods and explore!
A popular white from Greece is Assyrtiko (ass ear teek oh); lots of mineral with good acidity, and citrus notes mostly grown in the region of Santorini, but also grown throughout the country. The wine shows passionfruit flavors, a bit of minerality from the flinty soils, as well as salinity and lemon. Assyrtiko can be labeled Nykteri, which is aged in oak barrels and can exude more creamy flavors. Another varietal, Moschofilero (mosh oh fill air oh) is a bit sweeter, but shares the same citrus and minerality notes. Santorini is a growing wine region with distribution increasing worldwide.
Canava Chrissou Tselepos Assyrtiko from Santorini has an elegant bouquet of mixed volcanic hot stones, honey suckle and apricot. There is a tinge of minerality and zing of honey dew and grapefruit. I give it three bones.
Parparoussis Sideritis from the northwest corner of Peloponnese shows citrus on the nose with clean minerality on the palate with hints of pink grapefruit and chamomile. I give it three bones.
Tselepos Mantinia Moschofilero is a highly regarded wine showing white flower and citrus aromas. The finish is crisp with hints of grapefruit. I give it two bones.
Ftou, ftou, ftou! No evil spirits in our aisles, stop by or call and ask about our interesting selections from all around the world, as we continue to explore wines around the globe virtually. See you soon!
By Brunello Giancola as told to CRBrown