Croatian Wines
Viticulture existed in what is modern day Croatia thousands of years ago. Researchers believe grape vines were being grown on the Dalmatian Coast during the Bronze Age and Iron Age. Of course, we know true wine production is credited to the Ancient Greeks, who arrived on the Croation Coast in the 5th Century BC. Under the Roman Empire, wine production grew and was exported to other areas of the Empire. During the Middle Ages, in Croatia, there was a Royal Court official, referred to as the “royal wine producer” whose job was to oversee wine production. There’s a statue from 1214 on the Island of Korcula showing strict wine growing regulations. Through the 15th Century during the Ottoman Empire Croatia experienced a strict time of non-alcohol. It was the Catholic Church who was permitted to produce wine for their religious services, practically saving the industry by continuing to plant and grow vineyards. Wine production continued to flourish in the 18th and 19th Centuries under the Habsburg Empire, but by the end of the 20th Century, Croatia too suffered from an outbreak of phylloxera (a root louse that wreaked devastation to grape vines the world over) forcing many landowners /grape growers to seek other means of farming. Quantity rather than quality became the priority under the communist rule of Yugoslavia, however, in the 1990’s after the Croatian War of Independence, many small, family growers were able to get back to the work of crafting well made indigenous wines that have become competitive in the world market.
There are over 300 wine regions in Croatia with strict rules for quality and origin. Croatia has a mostly Mediterranean climate, located east of Italy, sharing the Alps. The coastline of the Adriatic Sea is ideal for grape growing, and some of the best terroir for superior quality grape production is along the Dalmatian Islands. Croatia is also home to a Slavonian oak forest, used all over the world for wine casks.
The majority of wine produced in Croatia is white, though red, and some sparkling wine and dessert wines are also produced. The Eastern Continental wine region consists of rolling hills along the Danube, Drava and Sava Rivers. Zmajevac is a top region that yields light and refreshing crisp whites that are aromatic. The Western Continental region has a cooler climate, the wine production is mostly white, and express great aromatics. Coastal Croatia, officially the area that runs between Istria and Dalmatia has very red, rich soil. Istria is one of the oldest recognized wine growing regions in Europe.
A famous Napa Valley vintner, Mike Grgich, a Croatian himself, believed that American Zinfandel derived further back than the Italian Primitivo grape, to a popular Croatian red Plavac Mali. Primativo has long been linked by DNA to Zinfandel, however, in 1994 Dr. Carol Meredith, a grape geneticist, discovered through DNA testing, that Zinfandel is identical to Croatia’s Tribidag, which is the parent grape to their Plavac Mali. This native varietal is rich and full of flavor, dark red, with tannin and structure, but low acidity. You will find flavors of blackberry, cherry, figs, pepper and spice. Other red varietals include Babic, Plavina, Teran, and the Austrian Blaufrankisch.
Grasevina and Posip are popular whites- dry, refreshing and aromatic, with apple and pear flavors. Other white varietals include Malvazija Istarska, as well as international varietals like Riesling and Chardonnay.
In 1991 Zlatan Otok became the second private winery in Croatia after the country declared its independence. Established by Zlatan Plenkovic in a picturesque fishing village. Zlatan has a legacy of hard work and success that is being carried on by his two sons. Bilo Idro is the restaurant the family runs at the marina.
Bilo Idro “Marina Cuvee” is a white blend of mostly indigenous varietals like Posip and Bogdanusa, all hand-picked organic grapes are used to create this crisp, mineral driven white that captures the carefree style of the Dalmatian Coast. Each variety is fermented separately. The final blend is created prior to bottling, then aged for 6 months in stainless steel tanks, then fined and filtered. They use no irrigation, and only small amounts of powdered sulfites and occasionally copper. The terroir is rocky with a limestone base. You will taste the minerals of the sea while enjoying this blend. We give it two bones.
Pomalo Frankovka Rose’ The Begovic cousins are two phenomenal winemakers from starkly different backgrounds. One based in the northeastern mountains of Slovenia, the other on the Dalmatian Coast of Croatia. The name Pomalo does not have Croatian roots, it means to relax and unwind. The label artwork usually features images of the beach, a VW bus, and people relaxing. This rose’ comes from the Slavonija-Pannonian Basin, which is part of the Continental Croatia growing region. Frankovka is the grape, also known as Blaufrankisch. The grapes are hand-picked, destemmed and pressed with minimal skin contact, with natural cold settling for 48 hours and then racked off the juice lees. This wine delivers a nose bursting with floral aroma and red berry fruits. The palate is fresh and vibrant with hints of strawberry, raspberry and watermelon. We give it two bones.
Bura- Mrgudic Peljesac Peninsula Basin Plavac from the steep southern slopes of the peninsula known for big reds, Bura Vineyards produce unique, delicious and prestigious wines from the Dalmatian Coast. Nico Bura’s vineyards are fully organic and are true expressions of the microclimates within the region. The Bura family has been growing grapes in Croatia for 16 generations! Plavac wines come from selected vineyards in the southern exposed Dinjac and Postup areas. Grapes were picked a bit early from younger vines to offer a softer and more elegant freshness. A beautiful example of traditional Plavac with a traditional twist on winemaking and growing. Plum, fig and blueberries with an earthiness of undergrowth and mushroom. We give it three bones.
Kozlovic Teran Kozlovic is the largest producer of Malvazia in Istria (white wine) and is a local crusader for wines of quality. The family has parcels of vineyards throughout Croatia and a long history of family farming. Gianfranco Kozlovic took the Teran grape and made something really special. Teran is traditionally tannic, acidic, big and bold, with hints of balsamic, sour cherries and black tea. The grapes were hand harvested and then sun dried on hay. The combination of several harvests rest over a 53 day period. The sun drying lowers acidity and makes the wine vibrant and luscious. Macerated for a period of 15 days, then aged in stainless before 12 months of resting in oak barrels. The winery is sustainable with minimal amounts of herbicides or pesticides. The terroir is a combination of white clay and limestone making for supurb structure and tannin. Only 2,500 cases produced. We give it three bones.
This is just a small sampling of the Croatian wines available for order here at Ed’s. Look for an upcoming tasting featuring wines of Slovenia and Croatia soon. Production is small and many times the native wine varietals are difficult for us to pronounce, but we love what is happening in Croatian wine making and are thrilled to share some of their affordable indigenous grapes with you!
By CRBrown
