Wines across the United State
We conclude our virtual tour of the world of wine right here in the US. Did you know that every state in the Union makes wine of some kind? Even here in tropical Florida, fruit wines are made. Since the 1500’s some form of viticulture has taken place in all 50 states, commercially beginning in New Mexico in the 1620’s marketing and selling their wine to other states.
There are several native species of Vitis Lambrusca or the “Fox Grape”, native to North America. These flowering plants produce the Concord, Catawba and Niagara grapes, among others, and are quite different from the European grape varieties from Vitis Vinifera. Wild grapes have been harvested by foragers for thousands of years, used for medicinal as well as nutritional value. Grapes date back to 6000 BC, and the earliest written reference to grapes and wine dates to ancient Egypt and hieroglyphics. Greek philosophers praised wine’s healing powers, and recently wine storage jars dating back 7,000 years were found in Iran. Wine has been a part of the human food chain for centuries, but it wasn’t until the latter part of the 20th century that more scientific techniques overtook traditional techniques. In 2007 Australia’s Commonwealth Scientific and Industrial Research Organisation (CSIRO) suggested that two extremely rare red grape varietal genes produced a single white grapevine that became the parent of almost all of the world’s white wine varietals.
One of our favorite wineries from New Mexico actually make traditional French Methode Champenoise sparkling wine. A Frenchman, Gilbert Gruet, born in Bethon, France in 1931, became a world leader in sparkling wine making. Gilbert inherited land from his father where he made fine Champagne in Bethon at Gruet et Fils since 1952. In the early 1980’s Gilbert and his wife Danielle were on a tour of the United States, where they met other European winemakers in New Mexico. The vineyards he toured, some 170 miles south of Albuquerque, had been producing grapes since the early 1700’s. Gilbert decided to make the move to the US with two of his four children, Laurent and Nathalie, and began his New Mexico winemaking venture in 1984. Gruet grows Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, and makes stunning non-vintage Gruet Blanc de Noir. Pale salmon in color with a nose of berries and pear followed by a rich, creamy, toasty finish. We give it three bones.
Another European with a strong wine history who helped build the industry her in the US is Dr. Konstantin Frank. Frank arrived in Upstate NY from Germany and introduced the Vinis Vinifera varietals from his native Europe to the Finger Lakes Region in 1957. We love the sweet and sour complex flavors of the Dr. Konstantin Frank Dry Riesling with flavors of lemon and peach. This wine rates two bones.
Out to our northwest, the Hedges family are pioneering legends in the American wine industry, too. In 1976, Tom Hedges, of Richland, Washington State, married his sweetheart, Anne-Marie Liegeois in her hometown in Champagne, France. Tom’s career had them zig zagging the country for years, but after eleven moves and two children, the couple settled in Washington State and started planting vines. The French influence is apparent as their wines (made by daughter Sarah Hedges Goedhart) express an old world style. This family put the Red Mountain AVA and Washington State’s Columbia Valley on the national wine map. We can’t get enough of the Hedges CMS Red a blend of C (Cabernet Sauvignon) M (Merlot) and S (Syrah), red cherry, cola and coffee come through immediately, with some hints of spice and lingering cocoa finish. We give it three bones.
We hope you have enjoyed our virtual tour around the globe learning a little about varietals from everywhere, as we have been on the bench for the last couple of years with the Pandemic. Travel restrictions are easing, but if you aren’t able to get on a plane and travel around the world to enjoy some great wines, we are always here for you. Travel up and down our aisles and we’re sure to help you find some wines you’ll enjoy, close your eyes and take you to the beautiful place it was made.
By Carolyn R Brown
In Loving Memory
Brunello the dog, who “writes” this blog with my help, and has such for the past ten years, has crossed the Rainbow Bridge. He died peacefully with all the love and support of his family, and dad, Ed Giancola on March 21, 2022.
On a warn, sunny, day during an outdoor Zinfandel wine tasting event, (Saints and Zinners) Suncoast Dog Rescue had some pups up for adoption. I spotted a white, fluffy pup, and was dying to go see it. When I was able to break away from my table, I walked in the store and there was the white pup, in the arms of Ed Giancola. “You’re adopting him?” I asked, a little disappointed. “Yes I am!” declared Ed. Brunello became a fixture in the store, greeting guests, and making friends everywhere he went. Over the course of time, Brunello became part of the store’s website; after all, he attended most tastings and events, and many loyal customers would come in just to see him and bring him a dog cookie. I had been writing blogs on wine for an Albany, NY tv station website, so when Perry and I discussed the blog, writing it under the guise of Brunello seemed a perfect fit. The system of “awarding” bones for ratings was a fun way to say this wine rates great! If it got “two bones” or “three bones” on the Brunello scale, it was above average. To keep Brunello’s memory a part of the store, we will continue Brunello’s blog about wine on the website monthly.
My love affair continued with Brunello weekly when I came to the store to call on Ed and Perry- mostly I stooped on the floor and rubbed Brunello’s belly, I made him homemade doggie treats, and Ed used to say his tail would start wagging when I pulled into the parking lot (well, me and the UPS driver). I was thrilled to publish my first wine book, Brunello’s Book of Blogs, born out of a furlough during the pandemic; it was a good time to organize the near decade of 500 word blogs by Brunello. In honor of Brunello, I am going to repost my all time favorite wine blog, that Brunello had a big part in. He was a very big part of my life, and a really awesome dog.
BRUNELLO’S NOSE KNOWS…
HOT DOGS!
I know I’m a “hot” dog, especially this time of year, and who doesn’t love a good dog off the grill in the summertime? But wine with hot dogs? What kind of wine pairs with the all-beef frank? natural casing, of course, though it kind of depends on the toppings. I love hot dogs- salty, fatty, and oozing with flavors, like a sausage. Franks can be served on a bun or naked, with relish, ketchup, mustard, sauerkraut, mayo, even chili. The wine pairing should probably go with the accoutrements, but in this case, nearly anything goes. Our number one rule here at Ed’s is to drink what you like with whatever you like. Hot dogs sing of the summer, easy to throw on the grill with a bun, served with some potato salad and baked beans, YUM. My mouth is watering! Hot dogs originated from Frankfurt, Germany, often referred to as the Frankfurter sausage, and can be made with pork, beef, chicken, or a combination of all. They became popular after being imported into the United States as a food cart snack, and then by baseball. Today, hot dogs can be dipped in breading and fried on a stick- the corn dog! or served on bread or rolls, toasted or grilled, or even fresh out of the bag. I can eat a whole package without any rolls, but that’s me, being a dog.
Corn dogs don’t need a roll around them, and are great with a glass of Chardonnay, the bigger and more buttery the Chard, the better, especially if you put a swish of mustard on the corn dog. I recommend Bogle Chardonnay from CA. It will also be delicious served with your picnic side dishes of pasta and potato or even fruit salads. The wine has just enough oak flavor, with hints of banana and apples. I give it two bones.
There are a few other options to go with the dog as far as choosing a wine, perhaps a Pinot Grigio on the lighter white side, as it is non-offensive and won’t interfere with the meaty flavors. Or you could go with a hearty red Zinfandel, big bold fruit with touch of spice. I recommend the Danzante Pinot Grigio from Italy. It is clean and crisp, with subtle flavors of citrus. I give it two bones.
Alexander Valley Vineyards makes “Sin Zin”, a red Zinfandel with just enough zip to stand up to the fat and spice, and enough fruit to balance the meal. I give it two bones. If Zinfandel is too spicy, you could go with a nice light Pinot Noir; red fruit flavors that won’t interrupt the tomato ketchup, and might pair nicely with French mustard? I might go with the Laetitia Pinot Noir, from CA; the Arroyo Secco region is producing some remarkable Pinot in the French Burgundy style, yet with a bit deeper red fruit, cherry and mushroom flavors. That gets three bones!
If you’re sitting around a camp fire with a dog on a stick, making the prefect chili topping, or simply boiling up the frankfurters on the stove, it doesn’t have to be beer that you serve with your meal. Oh, and make one for me, too!
Brunello will always be a part of the fabric that is the family that makes up Ed’s Fine Wines; employees, vendors, delivery drivers, customers and friends. Yes, wine DOES go with hot dogs. So cheers to Brunello, fly free, sweet pup, you were so fortunate to be loved, and to have touched so many lives. I’m sure you’re hanging out with Grandma Jane.
Carolyn R Brown
The Wines of Spain
Continuing our virtual wine tour around the globe, this month we fly into Spain. The country is approximately the size of Texas, with about double the population, and is the largest country in southern Europe, a part of the Iberian Peninsula. Spain has many diverse wine growing regions (over 138 to date) controlled by government regulations and guidelines for labeling and production. Situated between Portugal to the west and France’s Basque country to the northwest. Like most European countries, Spain is rich in history, with historic castles, and ancient ruins; grape growing historically dates back to Roman monks. Originally conquered by the ancient Romans, the country is lush with vineyards- nearly 2 ½ million acres planted to vine. Spanish wine is considered “economical” as much of the wine produced there is sold for bulk. Over 900 million gallons of wine is made and sold in Spain per year on average, and the cost remains low because much of the 600 indigenous varietals grown there do not command world attention. However, the regions are diverse, and many wines do command higher prices as their quality, and value on the world wine stage increases.
The Northern Mediterranean Coast features Cava, Priorat, and Montsant regions, with varietals such as Carignan, Garnacha, Macabeau, and Xarello. Cava is Spain’s sparkling wine, produced with in-bottle fermentation, similar to Champagne.
If you fly into Barcelona, Catalonia wine country is only 90 miles from the city center. A high speed train, the AVE can get you to Madrid in under three hours, which makes navigating the wine country a bit easier. The Northwest wine regions include, Rias Baixas, Ribeira Sacra, Bierzo, and Txakolina. The preeminent grapes here are Tempranillo, Mencia, Albarino and Godello. In the famous Ebro and Duero River valleys (north of Madrid) are Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Toro, Rueda and Carinena, with more common varietals such as Tempranillo, Garnacha, Verdejo and Viura. Toward the south are the popular Jumilla and Yecla (closer to Valencia) regions with Monastral and Malvasia grapes grown there.
If you’re not up on your Spanish geography, that’s okay, the key points you should know on reading a wine label from Spain include the government guidelines to aging:
A Crianza is a wine aged 1 year with at least 6 months in oak barrel.
A Reserva is aged for at least 2 years with 12 months in oak.
Grand Reserva is aged 4 years with at least 12 months in oak.
White varietals to be on the look out for and try are Albarino, Godello, Verdejo, and Garnacha Blanc. A few red varietals to seek out are Tempranillo, Garnacha, Carignan, Monastral, and Mencia.
Finally, the government classifications are from top to bottom, as follows:
VP – Vina de Pago, only 17 sub regions qualify for this special delineation, the word Pago meaning “estate”.
DOCa – Denominacion de Origen Calificada, this is the next highest level wine appellation, the region must have been a DO for at least ten years. Currently only Rioja and Priorat carry this delineation.
DO – Denominacion de Origen, the most wineries fall under this category, and a number of quality standards must be met to achieve DO status, including the use of authorized grape varieties. There are currently 67 DO regions.
VC – Vino de Calidad con Indicacion Geografica, this designation is on the ladder to the DO status, an area must have VC status for at least 5 years before they can apply for DO status.
VT -Vino de la Tierra, this is the only label under the European Union’s “Protected” status of Protected Geographic Indication category, and represent wines produced with certain characteristics inherent to a certain region.
Vino de Espana, these are wines produced without any specific indication, but are authorized to list country of origin, grape varietal, and harvest year.
We must mention The Canary Islands, home to Malvasia grapes and Andalusia (part of the famous “Sherry Triangle” -that’s another blog!) to the south, where Manzanilla and Amontillado produce sherry, an aged sweet wine that is Spain’s most famous!
Come try some Spanish bargains, or even a great DO from our selections.
Bodegas Avancia Godello From the Valdeorras DO, this historic white wine varietal has aromas of pear and white flowers, with a crisp minerality. I give it three bones.
Bodegas Gardina Garnacha Located in the village of Borja in the Zaragoza region, the grapes are hand picked and spent 15 to 22 months aging in French oak barrels. Elegant with aromas of spice and licorice, flavors of dark plum and cocoa. I give it three bones.
Juan Gil Red Blend From the region of Jumilla, this winery was built in 1916 by Juan Jiminez, now run by grandson, Juan Gil Gonzalez. A rich fruity nose with blackberry fruit, dark cherry and smoke. The wine is mostly made from the Monastral grape, with some Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. I give it two bones.
There’s so much to explore, you can travel the world by walking around the aisles of the store here at Ed’s. Don’t forget to give me a pat on the head, or bring a cookie to my cousin Miles, the black Poodle who has been coming in lately. We love dog biscuits! See you soon.
By Brunello Giancola as told to CRBrown
WINES OF PORTRUGAL
Portugal is a southern European country in the Iberian Peninsula bordering Spain and the Atlantic Ocean. It has many indigenous grape varietals as well as different climates, regions and ways of producing both still and fortified wines. From the islands of Madeira to Porto, in Northern Portugal, there are grapes growing aplenty. The Isles of Madeira boast spectacular ocean views from mountain ranges, and offer up its namesake, the fortified wine Madeira. Madeira is comprised of 4 islands off the northwest coast of Africa and was claimed by Portugal in the early 1400’s. Madeira can be sweet or dry with concentrated flavors and aromas. It undergoes a unique process that heats and oxidizes the wine. These fortified wines are under the Madeira DOC and non-fortified or table wines are sold under the VR, Vinho Regional distinction.
The Douro Wine region came to be much later, around the 1750’s, but phylloxera affected wine production and the region was not again fully commercial until the 19th Century. The Douro River Valley separates Spain from Portugal for nearly 70 miles. There are 14 government recognized wine regions in Portugal. The Peninsula de Setubal is known for its Setubal Moscatel, often called “sun in a bottle”, another popular Portuguese fortified wine, and is similar in style to that of Sherry which is produced in Spain. Portuguese Setubal Moscatel tastes of lychee, candied orange, lemon and raisin.
Casal Garcia Vinho Verde- One of the most popular white wines of Portugal, with its own DOC “Denominaceo de Origem Controlada” originating in the historic Minho Province in the far north. Vinho Verde literally means “green wine” however, it does not refer to the color, but to the age- as it is usually consumed within 3 to 4 months after bottling. The Vinho Verde region was created by law in 1908, even though grape growing there dates back to Roman times. Alvarinho is the main varietal used to make this light, refreshing white, along with Loureiro, which is often blended in. The wine can have a frizzante’ characteristic with flavors of tropical fruit and melon. I give it two bones.
Quinta de Chocapalpha Vino Tinto- A family estate since 1987 by the Tavares de Silva family, just north of Libson in the Lisboa wine region. This property has been growing grapes since the Romans 2nd Century BC. Maritime influences and chalky clay soils with a limestone predominance make for wines of interest. Indigenous grapes like Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Castelao, Syrah, Touriga Franca, Alicante Bouschet, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Verdot are all grown on the 60 hectare estate. This Vino Tinto is a blend of Tinta Roris, Touriga Nacional and Syrah aged for twenty months in French oak. Black fruit and some floral notes, with rich, ripe tannins. The wine has a long, fruit filled cocoa finish. I give it three bones.
Herdade Do Rocim Amphorae- Located in the lower half of Portugal in the Alentejo Region, between Cuba and Vidiguera lies the estate of Herdade Do Rocim, on almost 200 hectares. The climate is continental with hot summers and cold winters, but grapes do well amid cork trees, olive groves and wheat, the most important crop in the area. This wine is aged in Amphorae, a clay pot, after the grapes are picked, then placed in the clay vessel with skins and stalks, then sealed to ferment naturally with the wild yeasts. The clay allows for subtle amounts of oxygen and a neutral environment (unlike aging in wood barrels, no flavors are imparted) less Sulphur is needed and the wine is more “natural”. This red blend is made of mostly Tempranillo, (known as Aragonez in Portugal) Trincadeira, Moreto and Tinta Grossa. Flavors of blackberries, dark juicy plums and sour jam. These grapes are naturally acidic and the wine ends with fresh minerality balanced by a velvety finish. This is one to try- I give it three bones.
Maynard’s Late Bottle Vintage 2016 Porto- Port is a fortified wine, made in many different styles, including red, white, rose’ and even aged Tawny. Made from indigenous Portuguese varietals, each grape adds it’s own unique flavor and style. Port is made by adding a distilled spirit – usually grape based, such as brandy, to the wine; a process known as fortifying. Port comes from the Douro Valley, in Oporto, a DOC, and not unlike Champagne, only wines produced there can declare “Porto” on the label.
Walter Maynard was known to be the oldest wine merchant to ship Port across the ocean back in the 1600’s; an illustrious ancestor of the Van Zeller’s who own the company that produces Maynard’s today. Their 2016 LBV has aged gracefully, with an auburn tint to the caramel color, it is quite robust with black fruit flavors and an endless finish of tobacco and wood. I give it three bones.
Izidro Madeira Full Rich NV- Made with a blend of young grapes such as Sercial, Tinta Negra Mole, and Verdelho, then submitted to the unique heating process known as Estufagem, with strict traditional methods. This Madeira is aged in oak casks and has great acidity. Most often thought of as an after dinner drink, this one pairs with cheeses and nuts, and is definitely full and rich, with aromas of coffee and caramel. I give it two bones.
Portugal has so many varietals, regions and flavor profiles there’s so much to explore- come by the store and we will happily show you the many wines available from this distinctive and interesting country. See you soon!
By Brunello Giancola as told to CRBrown
WINES OF NEW ZEALAND
We have been winding our way around the globe virtually on a wine tour this last year. This month we land in another world, that of New Zealand, on the bottom of the globe, famous for their Sauvignon Blanc for the white wines, and Pinot Noir for the reds.
New Zealanders have been known as “Kiwis” since World War I when Australian soldiers referred to the natives as “Kiwis”. The word is derived from a native, flightless bird, called the Kiwi, and is not considered offensive. The only link between kiwi and wine is there could possibly be a slight flavor of the kiwi fruit in New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc- along with grapefruit and grass! The first Sauvignon Blanc was planted in the early 1970’s and grew prolifically in the Marlborough region, which has become the most famous area for grape growing there. While New Zealand wine roots can be traced back to the Colonial era, it’s major export popularity has only recently grown- with an increase of almost 20% in the last 20 years. In the late 1850’s French missionaries established vineyards in the region of Hawkes Bay. The Central Otago area is known for growing exceptional Pinot Noir grapes. By the mid 1980’s New Zealand had garnered national attention of its Sauvignon Blanc on the world wine stage, when wine critic Oz Clark famously wrote that New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc was “arguably the best in the world”. With that press, Sauvignon Blanc vineyards take up over 60% of viticulture grown in New Zealand, with several areas known as GI or “Geographical Indication” similar to a protected area in the European Union. Northland, Auckland, Kumea, Gisborne, Hawkes Bay and Nelson, Marlborough and Canterbury are most notable.
In today’s world of supply chain issues, as well as severe weather in the recent growing season, there is going to be a shortage of Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand. The last two seasons saw weather conditions with wet springs, so the plants had less flowering and therefore less overall grape production. Couple that with cargo ships delayed at international ports, and we are going to see price increases and fast product depletions. Let’s see what we have currently on our shelves and what you could stock up with on the current vintage. Drink up!
Sheep Creek Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, NZ
This special bottling was vinted specifically for Monsieur Touton Wines, which is distributed in 11 states. The grapes are hand selected and the wine rests before bottling and shipping. Flavors of lemon, lime and green apple, this wine has vibrant fruit flavor with balanced acidity. I give it three bones.
Frenzy Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, NZ
Frenzy is made by Paua Bay wines and comes from some of the best sourced fruit in the region. Hints of peach, grapefruit, lime and melon, with a touch of cut grass. 2020 was a “classic vintage”. I give it 3 bones.
Villa Maria Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, NZ
A large international drink company just recently purchased Villa Maria’s vineyards and winery, including properties in Auckland, Hawkes Bay, and Marlborough. The previous owners ran the winery from 1961, and created a well- known, popular brand. This Sauvignon Blanc is sourced from vineyards predominantly in Marlborough with aromas of gooseberry and passionfruit. Fresh herbal notes and hints of cut grass and grapefruit on the palate. I give it two bones.
The Little Sheep Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, NZ
Another group of vintners who carefully select grapes for natural and gentle pressing; aromas of ripe peach and citrus follow up with flavors of grapefruit and a hint of lemon. I give it two bones.
The unique terroir that shows in these wines will not disappoint. Remember 2020 was considered “classic” and 2021 will be in extremely short supply. Stop by, or call in and we will package up your order for curb side pick-up. Cheers, and Happy New Year!
By Brunello Giancola as told to CRBrown
Japanese Sake
We have moved to Asia in our virtual journey around the world. Even though Japanese Sake’ is technically not wine, it is often referred to as “Rice Wine”, it is actually a brewed product more like beer. The sake’ production process is fascinating and it makes a great dinner combo with your Asian meals, or as an aperitif. Let’s explore!
Often times you will hear the expression “it’s all about the water”. Water is essential, as it is a major part of many beverages produced with alcohol. The Japanese take great care in the use of their natural springs that are protected, for the use of sake’ production. Water comprises nearly 80% of the finished product of sake’, so quality water is very important.
Rice crops are cultivated, and then the rice is prepared- the polishing process starts with ridding the rice of its brown cuticle. There are three categories after the polishing process, before the rice even begins the sake’ process, it is milled to certain percentages.
Junmai the rice is 70% polished
Ginjo the rice is 60% polished
Dai Ginjo the rice is 50% polished
This means that the rice is milled down that percentage, then it is washed and steamed. The rice is then placed in a “koshiki” a traditional rice cooking instrument.
Once cooked it is transferred to a room where heat and humidity are monitored and the “kojimuro” begins. Koji is a fungus that once spread on the rice, allows the starch to react with the enzymes and break down the natural sugars, which can then be fermented into alcohol. After three days sitting with the koji, yeast is added, allowing alcohol and alcohol ethers to form, the temperature rises and bubbles begin to form.
The rice is then placed in large fermentation tanks for three to five weeks. Water is added and sometimes more cooked rice to feed the reaction. Then the contents of the tanks are pressed. The remaining materials composed of digested rice and yeast is called “kasu” and is often used in traditional Japanese cooking.
Sake’ can then be filtered and bottled (though there are “unfiltered” products available as well) or it can be pasteurized (though some are not).
Most sake’ is aged at least six months before shipping. Letting the sake’s settle for this period allows the flavors to round out, then more purified water is added, to lower the alcohol to around 15%. It is sometimes pasteurized a second time at this stage as well, before brewing. The process has been elementarily explained above (after all I’m just a dog!) however, there are books and teachings from thousands of years on brew masters and sake’ production. It is believed that the process of polishing and fermenting rice and brewing this alcoholic beverage began in Japan as early as 300 BC. Sake’ is an important part of the Japanese lifestyle, with rice as a main staple of food in Japan. We hope you’ll explore the sake’ we have on our shelves the next time you are enjoying sushi or some amazing Asian cuisine.
Tozai is one of our favorite sake’ producers here at Ed’s.
Snow Maiden
This sake’ is named for Hanako or the “flower maiden” the most famous Japanese koi fish that lived for over 200 years in the snowy, icy waters at the foot of Japan’s Mt Ontake. Bright and fresh with a fruity rice combination, flavors of honeydew, raw pumpkin, with a creamy texture. This sake’ is Junmai. I give it two bones.
Plum Sake The Blossom of Peace
Local and all natural plums are soaked in Tozai sake’ for over three months, resulting in brilliant flavors of almonds and marzipan, and flavors of rich plum. This sake’ is Dai Ginjo, I give it three bones.
Pearls of Simplicity
The epitome of purity, this sake’ is subtle with nuances and aromatics based on the ideals of Zen Buddhism. This sake’ is Junmai Dai Ginjo and goes through a secondary brew. Flavors of white flower, lemon, and a hint of licorice. I give it three bones.
Come explore our aisles for great treats from around the world, or give us a call for curb side pick-up! Hope to see you soon.
By Brunello Giancola as told to CR Brown
Italy
Well, I ought to know a little bit about Italian wine since that is my namesake! While taking our virtual tour around the world of wine, we make a stop in Italy this month. Italy is almost twice the size of the state of Florida, with wine grapes growing in nearly every corner of the country; from Puglia, the “heel of the boot” to Alto Adige bordering along the Alps with Austria and Switzerland, to the coastal areas of Tuscany. We explore exciting Appellations and wines you can find here on our shelves, which will transport you half a world away.
Let’s start with my name- Brunello! Brunello literally translates to brown, and I have the sweetest brown eyes, and softest snowy white fur, but I digress. Brunello is a wine made of 100% Sangiovese grapes- Sangiovese is the signature grape of Tuscany, the wine region Brunello di Montalcino lies in the heart of Tuscany, and is world famous for its long aging in large Slavonian oak vats. DOCG regulations require that Brunello vineyards must be planted on hillsides that slope with good sun exposure with altitudes just shy of 1, 968 feet (six hundred meters). Any higher elevation and it is believed the wine quality would be compromised due to the temperature changes and micro climates. Montalcino boasts one of the warmest and driest climates in Tuscany, and the rules help ensure the wines are of great quality. Brunello must be aged for at least four years, two of which must be in oak, and it must be bottled four months prior to release. Brunello is an amazing wine and I am an amazing dog- come by and bring me a dog cookie and you will see!
Tuscany is also home to the world famous Chianti region, which also features the Sangiovese grape. Tuscany covers both coastal and inland parts of Italy (over 8,900 square miles) between Florence and Siena. You may recall your first sip of Chianti out of a bottle wrapped in a straw basket! Chianti can range in quality but is always made with Sangiovese and come from within the Chianti region.
The very top right of the boot lies Italy’s northeastern most region of Friuli Venezia Giulia. It borders Austria to the north and Slovenia to the east and has a pretty mild climate. As a wine growing region, Friuli has diverse soils and has become well known for its Pinot Grigio (as have Alto Adige, Lombardy and Trentino). Pinot Grigio was born in Burgundy, known as Pinot Gris, but also found in Alsace (known as Tokay d’ Alsace), where it made its way to Italy through Switzerland in the 1300’s. Pinot Grigio has become the most popular exported white grape of Italy.
Here are a few Italian classics we have on our shelves (and our temperature controlled wine room) that represent some of the best of Italy:
Attems Pinot Grigio The Attems Winery is one of Friuli’s most historic producers- Count Douglas Attems led his family’s estate for the second half of the 20th Century, but also helped found the Consorzio dei vini del Collio in 1964, leading the region to DOCG status. The nose on the Attems Pinot Grigio expresses a great personality reflecting the terroir of the region of Friuli. You’ll savor the peach blossom on the nose, with flavors of green melon and ripe pear, I give it three bones.
Guidobano Roero Arneis This white wine is spritzy and full of yellow plum and citrus flavors. Guidobano is a young project of two brothers who recently bought property in the Roero region of Piedmont. This region is known for Barolo and Barbaresco for reds, and a lovely, fresh crisp white, occasionally referred to as “Barolo Bianco”. Arneis is cultivated almost exclusively in Piedmont, showing a perfumed nose of peach and fresh green apple and pineapple flavors with a dry finish. Perfect for our steamy Florida afternoons by the pool, I give it two bones.
Ornellaia Le Volte A “Super Tuscan” blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese from an iconic winery in Bolgheri,Tuscany. Le Volte is aged gently in small oak barriques, while some of the blend is aged in cement tanks in order to obtain the perfect balance of tannin and fruit expression. Black currant, blackberry, rose petals and mint show through on the first sniff, with red cherry and red raspberry on the palate- the wine is full bodied with a sumptuous finish. I give it three bones.
Casanova di Neri Brunello di Montalcino This winery was founded in 1971 by Giovanni Neri and continues to be family run. They use all estate grown fruit from their 1200 acres, and this Brunello comes from a single vineyard. Mostly Sangiovese is planted in Montalcino’s alluvial soils, rich in mineral, iron, and magnesium. The winery itself is mostly underground, built that way for both gravity flow and temperature control. This full bodied, age-worthy wine shows an intense nose of dark berries, leather, graphite and spice with intense flavors of black cherry and tobacco. The wine is perfectly balanced with scents of violet and rose, and layers of cocoa and espresso on the finish- it elegantly pairs with game meats, venison, and even veal dishes and mature cheeses. I give it three bones.
Come visit Italy in the aisles of our store- there are so many varietals and appellations to explore, we’ll help guide you along the way.
Greek Wine
Oph! Greece, it’s where it all started, right? Grape growing, viticulture, winemaking and distribution. Almost 7,000 years ago the Greeks were transporting homemade wines (and olives and olive oil) up and down the Mediterranean. This helped Greece not only establish itself as a country, it affected winemaking cultures along the trade route; the Celts, Etruscans and ultimately the Romans.
In Greek Mythology, Dionysus, the son of Zeus and his mistress Semele, invented wine while living in Mount Nysa. Naoussa, located on the slopes of Mount Vermion, was the first AOC (Appellation Orgine Controlee’) in Greece. It is believed the very first recognized wine varietal was Lemnio- once described by Aristotle as “a specialty of the island of Limnios”. The modern day Lemnio exudes the aromatics of oregano and thyme.
There are over 300 indigenous Greek wine varietals including their popular red varietal Xinomavro (zeen yah mahv ro). This varietal has often been haled as the Barolo of Greece. It has dark cherry fruit and big tannins. Xinomavro blends can sometimes even show an essence of tomato, fennel and anise.
Agiorgitiko (ah your yeek teek oh) another red varietal from Nemea, a region in the Peloponnese, shows full bodied wines that range in flavors from raspberry to plum and black currant, always with a hint of spice, anise or oregano on the finish. The wines are great to pair with foods and explore!
A popular white from Greece is Assyrtiko (ass ear teek oh); lots of mineral with good acidity, and citrus notes mostly grown in the region of Santorini, but also grown throughout the country. The wine shows passionfruit flavors, a bit of minerality from the flinty soils, as well as salinity and lemon. Assyrtiko can be labeled Nykteri, which is aged in oak barrels and can exude more creamy flavors. Another varietal, Moschofilero (mosh oh fill air oh) is a bit sweeter, but shares the same citrus and minerality notes. Santorini is a growing wine region with distribution increasing worldwide.
Canava Chrissou Tselepos Assyrtiko from Santorini has an elegant bouquet of mixed volcanic hot stones, honey suckle and apricot. There is a tinge of minerality and zing of honey dew and grapefruit. I give it three bones.
Parparoussis Sideritis from the northwest corner of Peloponnese shows citrus on the nose with clean minerality on the palate with hints of pink grapefruit and chamomile. I give it three bones.
Tselepos Mantinia Moschofilero is a highly regarded wine showing white flower and citrus aromas. The finish is crisp with hints of grapefruit. I give it two bones.
Ftou, ftou, ftou! No evil spirits in our aisles, stop by or call and ask about our interesting selections from all around the world, as we continue to explore wines around the globe virtually. See you soon!
By Brunello Giancola as told to CRBrown
The Wines of Germany
Germany is famous for it’s Riesling wines, though they grow several other varietals, including a red wine called Spatburgunder, which is their Pinot Noir, grown all over their 13 appellations. Despite a third of the country’s wine production being red, what we find most here on our shores is their famous Riesling grape. The climate and terroir is conducive to white wine making, and in addition to Riesling, there are several good white wines of German origin- Muller Thurgau is considered to be an everyday value wine. The varietal is a cross between Riesling and a grape known as Madeleine Royale, a bit easier to grow in colder climates. Pinot Gris is known as Grauburgunder, and Pinot Blanc is called Weissburgunder (and Klevner). Both of these varietals show more stone fruit than any given Riesling. There’s Silvaner, Gewurztraminer, Kerner (another grape cross between Riesling and a red varietal known as Schiava) which offers a more savory flavor with hint of peach. Scheurebe is a rich, sweet white with flavor of leechee nut and clove. Germany also grows Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, but most are not exported to the states.
The six categories of German “qualitatswein” Riesling which are ranked dry to sweet are in the following order: Kabinett, Spatlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Eiswein, and Trockenbeerenauslese. The Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese are dessert wines, often higher priced, with higher levels of sweetness.
In the late 18th century in Germany, Riesling grapes were left on the vines due to a delay in the message from the abbey where they were grown, with permission to pick. The wine was made anyway, but found to be sweeter and of excellent quality. A new method was created. This is different from ice wine or “eiswein” where the grapes are allowed to freeze on the vines before picking, which also intensifies the flavors and maintains a high residual sugar level. Eiswein is more difficult to produce, as are the very sweet Trockenbeerenauslese, and are therefore more costly than regular Rieslings. The yields from the vineyards are lower, and the timing of picking is critical. Some wineries are actually picking and freezing the grapes themselves- this is not traditional, although these wines will still taste great. Our neighbors to the North in Canada make many “Ice Wines” using different varietals, ether allowing freezing on the vines, or by freezing by machine.
Rieslings are made all over the world these days, however the varietal originated in the Rhein region of Germany. Thought to have traveled to France via the Romans, the grape has deep roots in the Rhein River Valley and Alsace, France. Alsace was originally a German territory in 921, then became part of France in 1552. Taken over by the Germans in 1870, then it went back to France. Despite Germany annexing Alsace in 1940, it has been a French territory since the end of WWII in 1945. The roots remain the same- the terroir offers some of the richest Riesling in the world
Here at Ed’s, we have Riesling from all over the world. Here’s a couple of interesting German wines we have on our shelf.
Schloss Vollrads Rheingau Riesling QbA offers a mineral bouquet with flavors of green apple and fresh peaches. Schloss Vollrads is an historic property along the Rheingau dating back to the 1200’s. We offer many selections from this highly rated Riesling proprietor. I give it two bones.
Thomas Schmitt Riesling Kabinett grown in the Mosel Region, part of the Schmitt Sohne Wine family this Riesling is grown in mineral rich soil on steep slopes with great sun exposure. I give it three bones.
Villa Wolf Gewurztraminer is from the Pfalz region, clean, fruity, and light with flavors of apricot, spice and aromatics of rose petals. Gewurz means spice in German, so just a hint of spice finishes on the tongue of this fine selection. I give it two bones.
German whites are great summer sipping wines, generally lower in alcohol and fresh and clean tasting to enjoy at the pool, while we wait out the last few weeks of summer heat. These wines pair well with Asian foods, salty foods and pungent cheeses. We still offer curb side pick-up, so give us a call and we can prepare your order for you! Hope to see you soon here at Ed’s
Champagne
Whether it’s a celebration, an aperitif’, or you just feel like “drinking stars” opening a bottle of sparkling wine doesn’t have to be a special occasion. We worked our way through France virtually, and the wines of this country could not be complete without a discussion on Champagne. This little region in the northeast of France garners rich history, sought after labels, and some of the most expensive, iconic wine in the world. This little region is the difference between “Champagne” and Sparkling wine. We have discussed that French wines are labeled by regional designation- were they come from, and not by the varietal that is in the bottle. The term Champagne has been deemed by the EU, and most of the world, to be the exclusive name for sparkling wines only produced in the Champagne region. There are five Provinces in Champagne; Aube, Cotes de Blancs, Cotes de Sezanne, Montagne de Reims, and Vallee de la Marne. Epernay and Reims are the two most famous towns in Champagne, and the grapes used to make Champagne are Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. The region has been a viticultural center since the Middle Ages, with the House of Gosset (founded in 1584 as a still wine producer) as the oldest Champagne house still in operation today. There are over 320 villages under the AOC (Appellation d’Origine Controlee’) and over 300 million bottles of champagne produced annually. Roughly 21 million of those bottles are exported, mostly to England and the US.
What makes Champagne unique, beside the terroir? After the first fermentation- where the juice is actually a still wine, fermented dry, the wine goes through assemblage or a blending process. Juice from previous vintages is added, and then a secondary fermentation process begins. The Liqueur de tirage a mixture of yeast and sugar is added and the wines are placed in thick glass bottles with a sealed cap, in a cellar to ferment. This is a natural process of alcohol and carbon dioxide creating its magic to form bubbles. After at least several months of aging in these bottles (some Champagne houses age for years- which imparts a yeasty, toasty flavor) the secondary fermentation process is complete. The next part of the process is called riddling or remuage. The bottles are kept upside down at an angle and each day are given a 1/8 turn. This procedure forces the dead yeast cells down so they can be more easily removed. The removal of the dead yeast cells is called disgorgement. In this process the bottle neck is frozen causing a plug of frozen dead yeast cells. The cap is removed and the carbon dioxide causes the plug to explode – in effect “disgorging” the dead yeast cells with very little loss of the wine. Finally, the dosage, often a well- kept secret at many Champagne Houses, a mixture of still wine is added and will make the Champagne either Brut Nature, Extra Brut, Extra Dry, Semi Dry or Doux (sweet). Then the Champagne is corked and covered with a cage to prevent the internal pressure from the carbon dioxide “popping” the cork.
These stringent processes are why Champagne prices are usually a bit higher than other sparkling wines made using different methods. If you see the word “Charmat” on a sparkling wine label, it means the secondary fermentation was done in a tank, and not in the bottle. All Champagne (from the Champagne region) undergo secondary fermentation in the bottle. This is called Methode Traditional or Method Champenoise. It is rumored the famous Benedictine Monk Dom Perignon “discovered” Champagne, which is not really true. Though he pioneered many techniques in both still and sparkling winemaking, his discovery of bottles in the cellar popping their corks from the carbon dioxide and declaring he was “tasting the stars” is linked to an advertisement for the Champagne in 19th century. Though if you’ve ever tasted a fine champagne with minute bubbles, it feels like you are drinking stars!
The difference between “vintage” Champagne and “non-vintage” Champagne is that vintage is made with grapes from one particular harvest year, and must be aged a minimum of three years, while non-vintage is a blend of base wines from different years. Non-Vintage Champagne is aged for 15 months minimum. We have a wonderful selection of them here at Ed’s.
Champagne Gosset Brut Reserve 45% Chardonnay, 45% Pinot Noir and 10% Pinot Meunier – harmonious notes of apple, with racy acidity, hints of raspberry and chalk, with just a touch of salted almonds. Sophisticated and rich with a fine mousse (the richness of the bubbles). I give it three bones.
Dom Perignon Vintage This classic vintage champagne shines with tropical fruit, mango, melon and pineapple with just a hint of orange zest. The famed Benedictine monk who was cellar master at the Abbey of Hautvillers set the precedent for today’s methode champenoise. The grapes for this champagne are harvested from 17 Grand Cru vineyards in the AOC. I give it three bones.
Champagne Bollinger Special Cuvee Since 1829 this famed house has been producing world class champagne from mostly Grand Cu vineyards for a continuity in style. Most vintage champagnes from Bollinger are aged twice as long as appellation requirements. This champagne has been featured in 19 James Bond movies. 60% Pinot Noir, 24% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Meunier, fine mousse, and golden color. The non-vintage champagne features beautiful aromas of roasted apple and peaches, with flavors of pear and brioche. Dynamic and fresh, I give it two bones.
Champagne Delamotte Brut 55% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir, 10% Pinot Meunier shows a floral nose with delicate bouquet of citrus, white flower and lemon peel. Lovely brioche and nougat aromas. An affordable luxury, I give it two bones.
Be sure to come by and give me a pat or a dog cookie when you’re ready to make your sparkling wine selections. Remember, champagne goes with everything, and a trip to France, even virtually, should always include a bit of bubbles. Cheers!
By Brunello Giancola as told to CRBrown
