It’s the most wonderful time of the year….
Celebrating the end of a no Hurricane season, perhaps it’s time to re stock that wine refrigerator and get ready to entertain visitors from the north, or perhaps you’re a part-timer and friends and family are on their way to visit over the holidays. We here in Tampa Bay have much to celebrate as the summer weather was kind to the entire state of Florida. This blog will explore everything from great Champagne to Beaujolais, the Gamay grape to enjoy with a traditional turkey dinner, an interesting Greek white, and domestic wines to bring to the holiday table or gifts that don’t disappoint!
Herbert Beaufort House of Champagne
In the 6th century, Count Atilla, the Seigneur of Pagus – gave to Saint Basles the lands of Bouzy. Bouzy became famous during the Sun King Century, and even Louis XIV was known to prefer these wonderful wines of Champagne over any other area. The first Champagnes were marketed with “CRU” and where it came from. Since 1895 Bouzy has been classified among the 17 Grand Cru Villages in Champagne. Recognized for the quality of their soil and the specificity of their climate, these vineyards have exceptional conditions to produce superior quality grapes. On thick, chalky sediment, the vineyards of Bouzy cover 381 hectares facing South on the Reims Mountains.
Herbert Beaufort, Champagne, 1er Cru Brut Reserves Les Facettes (NV)
This NV, or Non-Vintage Champagne is made from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes from the small estate. 18 months of lees aging offers texture and body with flavors of brioche and apple. Crisp and refreshing, almost an extra dry with notes of cherry blossom. We give it three bones.
Semeli Estate Mantinia, Greece
Beginning your festivities with sparkling wine is always a treat! However, if you need a nice, bright light white to either pair with seafood or appetizers, let us celebrate the mood with a fine Greek wine. Founded in 1979, Semeli Estate is a premier winery with deep roots and time honored traditions. A long-established name in the Greek wine market, this winery is worth exploring Moschofilero is the grape varietal, it shows elegant floral aromas with lemon, citrus and rose petal. Rich and fruity on the palate with a long aromatic finish. Moschofilero grapes are hand-picked at the estate in the region of Mantinia- chilled overnight, pressed pneumatically and vinified according to the Greek classification, with gentle maturation on the lees for four months. This wine is intense but light, showcasing the great white varietal indigenous to the Peloponnese. We give it three bones.
Daniel Bouland, Cote de Brouilly Cuvee Melanie
The Gamay grape varietal, the only red grown in Beaujolais, is believed to be a cousin of Pinot Noir- a cross between Pinot Noir and the ancient varietal Gouais, thought to have been brought to the region by the ancient Romans. Gamay has more floral notes and a bit more acid and minerality than Pinot Noir. The Beaujolais Crus tend to produce more concentrated and age worthy wines, than say, the Villages wines. Key Beaujolais regions are Julienes, Saint Amour, Chenas, Moulin A Vent, Fleurie and Morgon, as well as Regnie and Cote de Brouilly.
Daniel Bouland is perhaps the greatest producer of old fashioned Morgon in existence- from less than four hectares of old vines, he crafts wine that can age 20 years or more. All the grapes are hand harvested and vinified full cluster. There is a distinctive minerality and structure to the Brouilly, this is old world produced Gamay at its finest. Beautiful violet notes on the nose with red fruit. Raspberry, black cherry and plum flavors, all the while sensing mineral and earth (like flint, granite and pepper) with hints of chocolate. We give it three bones.
Chasing Lions Pinot Noir, CA
The mighty Lion roars and is the cornerstone brand for Nine North Wine Company. Chris Nickolopoulos and Elijah Pfister became friends after spending many barbeques and drinking wine together. The two are no strangers to good food and wine as Chris grew up in a restaurant family in the Midwest, and Elijah’s uncle owned a large wine and liquor retailer in North America. Nine North is a proprietor and negotiant wine business, which means Chris and Elijah work together with many wineries and grape growers to select the best vineyards, lots, plots, and barrels for each wine they produce. Winemaker Molly Lippett consults for all the award winning varietals.
Chasing Lions Pinot Noir is a varietally correct Pinot – Burgundian in style but a bit more body from North Coast California appellation. It opens with bright cherry fruit, orange peel, violets and black figs. A balanced spice with layers of oak and vanilla bean, and flavors of Turkish apricot and essence of clover. Wine Enthusiast gives it 92 points, we give it three bones.
Bonny Doon rLe Cigare Volant – “Take me to your Liter”
In 1984 Bonny Doon released the inaugural vintage of Le Cigare Volant, an homage to Chateuneuf du Pape, and this wine continues to be the winery’s flagship brand. The premier release referenced an obscure French law enacted in 1945 by the tiny French town synonymous with these varietals. The law prohibited the use of flying cigars (saucers) around the town’s numerous vineyards. At the time there were believed to be UFOs in the area. The artwork on the label remains today, and there is even a drawing of Graham’s face hidden in the “cigar”, and signature “aliens”. This 40th Anniversary bottling of Bonny Doon Le Cigare Volant red blend comes in a Liter size with the “Take Me to Your Liter” label in jest of the alien ship. Notes of wild strawberry, rhubarb and black pepper. 69% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 14% Cinsault, 2% Petite Sirah, a perfect medium to light bodied pairing for your holiday dishes, we give it three bones.
Hullabaloo Zinfandel is another California project from Nine North, at a fair price point it delivers everything a Zinfandel from Lodi should. A perfect gift or paring for all the flavors of your holiday table. The vines sourced are over thirty years old, aromas of boysenberry, licorice and white pepper, with flavors of wild cherry, blueberry and cola, with a nice dash of spice on the finish. We give it three bones.
Chateau Chantalouette Pomerol is made with 72% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc, and 11% Cabernet Sauvignon. The Chateau has been owned by the same family in Bordeaux for five centuries. A “second wine” of the famous Chateau de Sales, the 2016 vintage is their current release. An exceptional vintage, 1/3 aged in oak and 2/3 in vats before blending and bottle aging. The intense nose reveals red berry aromas, delicately complimented by spice and vanilla notes. A complex mid palate of fresh red fruit, cherry and cocoa, with velvety tannins and a lingering harmonious finish. We give it three bones.
Whether you’re searching for a hostess gift, a bottle to impress, something for your own table to share that you won’t see in the corner grocery or drug store, the above selections are for you! Ranging in price and palate, the wines will compliment most any typical holiday meal, from ham to turkey to lamb. Blessed we are to have such fine offerings available this holiday season.
Happy Holidays!
By CRBrown
Wines to Fall for….
Over the seasons (we are still in “summer” here in sunny Florida, even though the calendar says Autumn) we like to look at and explore wines that match the time of year. As we edge ever closer to our favorite time of year (not Summer) we are taking a look at some interesting and different varietals, exploring wines from all over the globe we have here on our shelves or available to order. Brunello would say “woof” and award bones as points to the following wines:
Domain Font Mars Picpoul De Pinet
The appellation is in Languedoc- Roussillon, France, the grape varietal is Picpoul (pronounced peek pool) it was originally referred to as “lip zapping”- as the wine is bright and acidic. It is perfectly paired with fried appetizers, seafood, raw oysters and sushi. Picpoul has a long history growing in the Languedoc region as well as the Rhone. It is one of only 13 varietals allowed for use in the blend of Chateauneuf du Pape, and both its red and white varietals are allowed for use there, according to the French wine Classification system. Picpoul has three distinct colors, the Blanc, Picpoul Noir (red) and Picpoul Gris (gray skinned and not widely grown). Domain Font Mars is located at Chateau Font-Mars property in Meze, in Languedoc. The family has roots from Holland, with numerous generations of winemakers. Jean Baptiste de Clock is now the youngest son in charge of the winery. The soils are chalky and part of 55 hectares the estate produces (both Picpoul Blanc and Noir) the wine shows peach, lime and fresh citrus flavors with gentle herb notes and saline on the finish. We give it three bones.
Markou Vineyards Emeis Red from Central Greece is a 50-50 blend of Agiorgitiko and Mandilaria, native varietals to Greece, one being an islander, the other a mainlander. Mandilaria is a red variety with intense color and Agiorgitiko is one of the most well-known and widely planted Greek varietals. It is versatile and can be used for many styles of wine. Markou Winery has about a hundred acres of vines in Nemea, Peloponnese, and is one of the oldest artisanal wineries of Athens- since 1908. The Markou family have been stewards of the land and grape growers for centuries. Exclusively run by seven family members that run the entire spectrum of operations from vineyard management, winemaking, sales and marketing. Emeis Red shows spicy notes, crisp tannins and rich fruit flavors of the forest. Serve with red meats, cheeses and spicy foods. We give it three bones.
Pillzota Babic is produced from the vineyards on the outskirts of Sibenik, Croatia. The area sees some of the warmest temperatures in the southern region of Croatia called Dalmatia. The history of the grape is largely unknown but believed to be indigenous for hundreds of years. Croatian wines continue to receive international attention and recognition. Babic is an impressive grape that embodies the essentials to produce a great wine- tannins, intense aromas, and long-lasting flavors. Babic is grown is small clusters with thick skins unique to Dalmatia. Aged for 6 to 8 months in Slavonian oak, this Babic gives us aromas of ripe dark fruit, blackberries, blueberries, plums and figs. Accompanied by typical barnyard earthiness, it is gamy with smooth, mouthwatering acidity with a gentle and intriguing finish. We give it three bones.
Montaria Reserva Portuguese Red is a blend of Syrah, Arigonez and Trincadeira grapes, the last two indigenous to Portugal, and often found in the fortified Porto wines produced there. The story behind this winery is dogs have been domesticated for centuries and have served as human protectors and companions. In ancestral paintings they are found by human’s side. The vineyard dog at Herdade da Candeeira is called Montaria- named for the tradition of dogs accompanying humans on hunts for big game. He is a beautiful German Shepard that also graces the side of the shipping box with his photo. In their efforts to praise the canine, the winery contributes $3 per case sold to an animal shelter in the state that it is purchased from. The estate in Alentejo is the largest wine region in Portugal with the greatest diversity, including eight sub regions. The soils vary from clay, limestone, marble, schist and granite. The blend is fermented in stainless tanks before aging in French and American oak barrels for 7 months. Dark ruby color with ripe berries and aromas of dark chocolate. Perfect on its own or paired with meats and hearty cheeses, it is a bargain! We give it three bones.
Rossello Grignolino D’Asti is a varietal native to the Piedmonte region of Italy, the northwest side of the “boot”. It’s light colored and light bodied with floral hints and pepper. The Rossello family has been producing wines in Piedmonte for over a hundred years. The Asti region is a DOCG appellation known for its sweeter white- Moscato d’Asti, but several other indigenous varietals flourish. Grignolino is often referred to as “baby Nebbiolo” believed to be native to the area between Asti and Casale. Pairs beautifully with herbs and mushrooms. Pale ruby color with notes of strawberry, red currant and sour cherry. There are herbal hints with a touch of white pepper. We give it two bones.
We hope you enjoy falling for some wines of distinction that are different from the ordinary “every day” wines, however, we have those, too! Stop in and ask us anything, try a sample, or order online.
Salud!
By CRBrown
Qupe Winery of Santa Ynez, California
A couple hours drive north of Los Angelas along the Pacific Coast highway just north of Santa Barbara and in Santa Barbara County is the Santa Ynez AVA (American Viticultural Area). The AVA was established in 1983 as a recognized wine growing region in California, which was petitioned by the famous Firestone Vineyard. The area is part of the larger Central Coast AVA whose valley is a thirty mile corridor formed by the Santa Ynez Mountains to the south, bordered by Purisima Hills and the San Rafael Mountains. 1983 was a banner year for California vineyards with the largest amount of appellations granted by the US goverment. Long before the movie “Sideways” put the region on the map, early pioneers like Uriel Nielson in the 1960’s and Tepusquet Vineyards in the 1970’s achieved commercial success in the Santa Barabra area. Up until the mid 1990’s, most of the fruit grown there was sold outside of the county. Only in the last two decades have boutique winemakers started specializing in the region. Another pioneer, back in 1976, a young Richard Sanford, whose degree in geology and passion for great Burgundy helped create his award winning winery, Sanford & Benedict, and attracted great oenophiles. Early growers like Ken Brown, Randall Grahm, Bob Lindquist and John Alban grew grapes in areas along Foxen Canyon Road, which then attracted more investors as it became clear, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Riesling and Syrah were of very high quality.
Qupe was started in 1982 along Foxen Canyon Road, in the heart of the Santa Ynez Valley by Bob Lindquist -a lover of Syrah. Qupe quickly grew into a worldwide phenom for Rhone based varietals. In 1990 Andrew Murray purchased the adjacent property to Qupe, and in the fall of 2024 purchased the Qupe Winery (along with some amazing library wines) from a bankrupt Vintage Wine Estates, a publicly traded conglomerate. Andrew is now focusing on crafting balanced and delicious wines from the cool coastal vineyards along Foxen Canyon Road. He also sources from Arroyo Grande, Sta. Rita Hills, Santa Maria and Santa Ynez.
Andrew Murray has been an independent family-owned winery for over three decades, dedicated to crafting exceptional wines. Adding the legacy Qupe name to their portfolio that has championed award winning Chardonnay and Syrah since 1982 was quite the feat. Murray says “We’re bringing it back home” as he was once inspired by the passion for Rhone varieties by Lindquist, who named Qupe after the Chumash word for poppy. The Chumash are Native Americans who lived along the California Coast originally known for their sophisticated maritime culture. The Chumash culture endures today, including the federally recognized “Santa Ynez Band of Chumash”. The Chumash have a deep and on-going connection to their traditional territory, including the wine growing regions of the Central Coast. The logo with the poppy, which is California’s state flower, is homage to the Chumash ancestors of the land.
Lindquist was one of the first in Santa Barbara and in the Unites States to base his winery business model on Rhone varietals, and was one of the original “Rhone Rangers” promoting Syrah, Grenache, Marsanne and Viognier grapes, much like Andrew Murray did years later. Lindquist was considered a giant in the world of wine, growing Qupe from a few hundred cases to several thousand production per year. In 2013 Lindquist sold most of his Qupe Vineyards to Charles Banks, who later went on to work with Mayacamas, while Vineyard Estates has been slowly liquidating many of their vineyard holdings.
The future for Murray and Qupe will focus on Y Block Chardonnay and Central Coast Syrah. Qupe Chardonnay is a blend of old California Clone Chardonnay from both Santa Maria and Sta. Rita Hills. 100% fermented and aged in a mix of new and neutral French oak barrels. Full malolactic fermentation is encouraged through gentle lees stirring and the result is a rich, decadent, well balanced Chardonnay inspired by its Burgundian roots. Notes of white flower, stone fruit, lemon, toasted brioche and a tough of vanilla. We give it three bones.
Qupe Syrah Central Coast is a blend of primarily hillside grown Syrah from 25 plus year old vines in Arro Grande, and some stunning Syrah from Santa Ynez and Ballard Canyon. The soils are all sand over limestone which ensures amazing concentration, fruit intensity and balanced natural acidity. All the fruit is picked block by block at optimum ripeness in the dark of night to ensure cold, crunchy grapes. Many lots are sorted and de- stemmed while others are left for whole cluster fermentation. After 10 to 21 days on the skins, the wines are pressed to a mix of new and neutral French oak barrels for 18 months of aging. Flavors and aromas of ripe cherry, raspberry and purple flowers, olive brine and toasty French oak. We give it three bones.
You might also like to try Andrew Murray Esperance a rich red blend of 65% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, and 15% Syrah. Medium bodied with aromas and flavors of ultra ripe strawberries, black cherries, blood orange and tart raspberry. We give it two bones.
Come check out our fine selection of Rhone based varietal wines from California’s Central Coast here at Ed’s.
By CRBrown
CHILLABLE REDS
When it’s hot, hot, hot, and you love your red wines, what to do? Refrigeration!! Viola – we know a lot about that here in sunny Florda. Man can no longer survive without refrigeration. Did you know that the Ancient Chinese cut and stored ice as far back as 1000 BC? The Egyptians used underground chambers to store ice and snow, and the Persians were the first to develop “ice houses” for food storage and preservation. Even in Colonial America, the founding Colonies were dotted with ice houses for food preservation. The birth of modern-day refrigeration was discovered by a Scottish physician, William Cullen, in 1748 he used an artificial method of evaporating liquid to gas. The first refrigerators were designed around the 1840’s and paved the way for commercial and residential refrigeration, not just for our comfort, but for food and wine storage and preservation.
Around 6,000 BC the Georgians were storing wine in clay and burying it underground for preservation. The old saying of “red wine should be served at room temperature” was based on ancient European wine cellar temperatures, which often hovered around 45 degrees. Back in Medieval times, room temperatures varied as well, so proper wine storage was often underground, caves or cellars. Many times, the wine would have to be warmed up before serving. Red wine with its high tannin, higher alcohol and bigger body becomes astringent and a little bit metallic tasting when served too warm. And white wines, when served frigid can remove the fruit and other intricacies of the wine flavors. Seeking a perfect temperature for service is a challenge!
So now that we know, the old adage of serving red wine at room temperature came from a time when red wines were served in chilly, ancient French castles or chateau, how do we figure out what wine should be served at what temperature? As with most things in wine, it is subjective. There is a general rule of thumb that reds should be served around 55 degrees Fahrenheit and whites should be served at 40. But let us take a look at a few fun wines, their region of origin, and varietal, that do better with a little chill.
The Mediterranean climate of Greece is a great example of an area that produces their own wines, using native varietals. Most are whites as the lighter skinned grapes grow better in the higher temperatures, however, most Greeks will serve their native red wines refrigerated. Markou Vineyards grows predominantly indigenous varietals, with minimal intervention, without irrigation, and hand picking/sorting. The vineyards are surrounded by olive groves, and herbs- bushes of thyme and rosemary, Pines and Cypress trees. All of this contributes to the terroir of their wines.
Marcou Emeis Red an organically grown blend of Agioritiko and Mandilaria, from Attika, in Central Greece, near Athens. Emeis is fermented via carbonic maceration which reveals a more playful, candied flavor profile, and is often served chilled. We give it two bones.
Chile also has a Mediterranean climate, characterized by long hot, dry summers. The Carignan grape, also known as Mazuelo, and Carignano is a red varietal of Spanish origin, most commonly grown in France and now South America. Vina Maitia produces Carignan from hand harvested grapes from a 60 + year old vineyard in The Maule Valley, known for its granite soils. “Weon” is a common Chilean slang term for “dude” or “bro”, the Vina Maitia Weon Carignan is aged in concrete tanks, unoaked and light bodied. Notes of blackberry, cedar, and black pepper, the wine shows exquisitely around 50 degrees. We give it three bones.
Another great Chilean red wine to try chilled is the Pais Veijo also grown on older vines from the Maule region. Bouchon Family Wines began in the late 19th Century when Emile Bouchon left his winemaking family in Bordeaux to pursue a wine life in Chile. The Pais varietal is known for light fruit, strawberry with wildflowers and flavors of sour cherries. J Bouchon Pais Viejo is a perfect wine to chill and serve with a steak, we give it three bones.
J Lohr Valdiguie Wildflower is crafted in the style of Beaujolais, with Carbonic Maceration, similar to the Markou red from Greece. This light bodied red from the famous J Lohr winemakers is sourced from Monterey fruit. A bright floral nose, red cherries and strawberry fruit, we give it two bones.
Bilo Idro Plavak from Otok Winery in Croatia is made organically, with no irrigation from grapes grown on rocky soils with beautiful sea and sun exposure. The Plavac sees only 8 days of skin maceration, then is aged in stainless steel tanks using native yeasts. Bilo Idro is meant to be an approachable, fresh and easy drinking style of Plavac Mali that brings you dockside overlooking the Adriatic Sea.
Notes of baby blueberries, dark red cherry and subtle earth, serve it with a slight chill. We give it three bones.
Emma is a Lambrusco wine produced by Cantina di Carpi e Sobrara, a sparkling red wine from the Emilia Romagna region of Italy using Lambrusco grapes. It is light, fresh and fun, with aromas of strawberry, raspberry and fig; it’s recommended to pair with spicy foods or appetizers as the bright acidity and bold fruit balance out. Emma Lambrusco is a perfect example of a red wine, showing lighter color because of lower skin maceration time, produced in a sparkling wine style to be enjoyed cold. We give it three bones.
Living in Florida and enjoying red wine is easy thanks to modern day refrigeration. Step inside our wine room and into the world of perfect temperature vintage reds! Wine is part of a subjective world- so you are free to enjoy it any way you like. Some folks drink their whites on the warmer side, some throw in an ice cube (this practice is not acceptable if you are evaluating and enjoying a red wine, as it melts the addition of water will change the actual and intended taste of the wine). However, swirling a cube in a glass of hot wine and discarding quickly has been the key to a quaffable red on a hot patio! Best advice: before you open that big, heavy red wine, throw it in your refrigerator for about ten minutes and then enjoy it at the perfect temperature. We have many “chillable reds” here at Ed’s, and hope to see you soon!
Cheers!
By CRBrown
AKENTA SUB “UNDER THE SEA”
Sparkling wine aged on the ocean floor by Santa Maria La Palma Winery is known as “Akenta Sub” – the fascinating wine aged in the sea off the island of Sardinia. Created in 2011 by the Santa Maria La Palma winery, it’s the first of its kind underwater aging method in Italy. High pressure, gentle movement of the currents, a lack of oxygen and no light make for ideal aging of sparkling wine. Of course, under water aging of sparkling wines comes with a higher price tag- the concept originated from bottles of Veuve Clicquot discovered among the remains of a sunken schooner- that had been aging over a hundred fifty years in the shipwreck! Upon inspection and consumption, the champagne was superb. Today, several wineries house both sparkling and still under water, usually in the sea, though sometimes in a lake, however, the under water pressure and gentle motion seems to play a positive role in the aging of sparkling wines.
In 1946 in the Nurra countryside of Sardinia, there were hundreds of hectares that had been reclaimed and assigned to a large group of farmers from different areas, including Sardinia and Northern Italy. One hundred of these land stewards decided to become partners and founded the Cantina Santa Maria La Palma. Overlooking the sea between the Gulf of Alghero and the Bay of Porto Conte, the lands are caressed by the wind and warmed by the sun. The winery is now one of the most important in Sardinia. Sardinia is the second largest island in the Mediterranean Sea, after Sicily, and one of the twenty eight regions of Italy. Lying west of the Italian Peninsula, and south of the French Island of Corsica, the name Sardinia has pre-Latin roots. Later Romanized as Sardus (female Sarda) which testifies to the Islands existence when the Phoenician merchants arrived, around the 9th Century BC. The Greeks, also referring to a legendary woman called Sardo, or of the Sea, knew of the Island.
Unlike Sicily, or main land Italy, it is not earthquake prone; with mountain ranges and high peaks, along with alluvial valleys in between, the region is ideal for white grapes and the red known as Cannonau (genetically similar to Grenache) but indigenous to Sardinia. Along with Sheep farming, wheat production, cheese, olive and tomatoes, wine is a major agricultural export. There are also some oak cork trees found in the forests of Sardinia- producing nearly 80% of Italian cork!
Santa Maria La Palma is a large winery that manages many small plots of vineyards, each tended by a family of experienced wine growers, supported by the supervision of a team of agronomists and oenologists. The element that distinguishes the winery and represents its strength is the union of many small family business’ that work in harmony, supporting and collaborating. Varied soils and terroir tended by the expert families create the ideal varietals grown on the island. The Akenta Sub was created as a prestigious underwater wine cellar- a combination of creativity, innovation, and love for the land. In 2023 the winery produced over 5 million bottles distributed around the world. Vermentino and Cannonau are the two main indigenous grape varietals grown, and both carry DOC status with the Italian government.
The origin of Vermentino is not entirely certain, but traces of its cultivation dating from the 14th century have been found on the Island of Corsica and the Liguria region of Italy, meaning that it probably came from the Iberian Peninsula. It appeared in Sardinia in the late 19th and early 20th Century being planted in the northeast, before becoming popular all over the island.
After various attempts, the winery developed an “official” under water aging method. Akenta is made with Vermentino di Sardinia DOC sparkling wine, made in the traditional Charmat method. The name Akenta derives from the ancient Sardinian blessing for a long life – “a chent annos” which means “to a hundred years” a phrase of good omen and best wishes.
The wine is bottled and crated and dropped 30 to 40 meters under the sea for 6 to 12 months transforming into Akenta Sub. The unique aging process adheres to strict and precise environment sustainability and criteria that imparts unparalleled complexity and depth to the wine (no pun intended). This aging process has been adapted in other parts of the world as well, as research has shown when the wine emerges, there is a taste of extraordinary intensity. In addition to its unique flavors, Akenta Sub is a work of art, naturally adorned with marine barnacles make each bottle collectible. The winery’s top oenologist, Gaetano La Spina introduced the under water aging to top Sommeliers in Italy, who tasted and described the wine, again, made in the Charmat method (in tank as opposed to in bottle) from Vermentino DOCG grapes as brilliant in color with fine perlage, fresh aromas and floral tones. In 2023 Akenta Sub was selected as the official wine of Vinitaly. It was the first time a Sardinian wine was selected for this event.
Since 2016 the emergence of the Underwater Cellar, it has become a spectacular event with hundreds turning out to watch. The delicate operation involves divers, technicians and a helicopter culminating in grand celebration when the wine is pulled out of the sea, and gently placed on land. Akenta Day is set to become an international attraction, and with just a few bottles in Florida you won’t want to miss out on the excitement! We carry both the Aragosta Vermentino for your weeknight pleasure, and are receiving an allocation of the beautiful Akenta Sub this month.
Santa Maria La Palma Vermentino “Aragosta” 100% Vermentino sourced by the winery from calcerous soils in three specific vineyard sites. The wine is clean and crisp, straw color with floral and herbal notes, and juicy salinity on the finish with a hint of citrus and pine nut. We give it two bones!
Santa Maria La Palma Akenta Sub 100% Vermentino DOCG grapes using the Charmat method, then carefully aged under the sea for 6 to 12 months. The bubbles are small and the essence of the sea is up front in the nose and the palate. Reminiscent of fine aged champagnes, this wine shows a bit of yeast and bread, with some nuttiness and fresh lime zest on the finish. What a joy to experience. We give it three bones.
Whether sparkling wine or still wines, we have a great selection of Italian and Sardinian wines for your globe trotting pleasure in a glass. See you soon!
By CRBrown
CABS FOR DADS A BRIEF HISTORY OF CABERNET SAUVIGNON AND GIFTS FOR FATHER’S DAY
We celebrated Mom’s last month with a wide array of options for her relaxing pleasure. Father’s Day leans toward barbeques and burgers and beers, but for the dads who enjoy their wine, Cab is King! Let’s delve into the past and perhaps discover the future!
Historically, wine varietal regulations lean to the French, even though the Romans were growing grapes and vinifying the juice long before the 1855 Bordeaux Classification. Cabernet Sauvignon is an “original” Bordeaux varietal. A cross between Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc, the varietal has notes of black fruits and tannins no matter where it is grown today-though the wine can vary significantly based on where its grown and the artistry of the winemaker. Bordeaux is separated by the Gironde Estuary and the Dordogne and Garonne Rivers, the Left (Cabernet Sauvignon dominated) and Right (Merlot dominated) Banks of the Bordeaux region offer unique soils and terroir that make them world famous. The communes of St. Estephe, Pauillac, Saint Julien and Margaux produce some of the most sought-after Cabernet grapes in the world. The terroir is rocky, with gravel and limestone, facilitating the flavorful qualities the wines are famous for. In early wine trade, the location along the rivers made for easier commerce, and the reputation for Bordeaux wine soon became global, as the wines proved to be of fine quality and age worthy. By the late 19th and early 20th century, cuttings of Bordeaux’s famous varietals had spread to places like California, Australia, Argentina and Chile, and even in Italy where an off the DOCG rules wine became the most famous- known as the Super Tuscan- a blend of the native Sangiovese grape from Italy, and Cabernet or Merlot transplanted from Bordeaux. The Cabernet grape is thick skinned and hearty with small clusters that contribute to the rich color of the wine and higher tannin levels.
Cabernet’s true “Second home” is that of Napa, California, where the grape thrives in the well drained soils of the valley floor- where some claim they can taste the” Napa dirt” or “Rutherford dust” in the wine. Warm days and cool nights have created ideal growing conditions, paired with the volcanic soils, and as winemakers have become more experienced, Cabernet has become the “king” in California, with a global market dominance. Wine growers and the artists these winemakers have become over the last few decades have shown the world that not just Napa, but much of California’s winegrowing regions produce world class Cabernet Sauvignon. In addition, Argentina has shining examples of well-crafted Cabernet (Bordeaux varietals thrive in Mendoza- Malbec being the most widely planted). Below are some exemplary Cabs you can get here at Ed’s. Let’s begin at the beginning with a top Chateau in Bordeaux, that we can order for your Dad this Father’s Day.
Chateau Calon-Segur St Estephe Le Marquis This Cabernet Sauvignon dominated affordable second wine of Calon- Segur of Medoc offers rich dark berry fruit on the nose with plush ripe tannins and a velvety finish. The Chateau is a third classified growth since the 1855 Classification, meaning it is in the top third of all producers from the famed region. The soil has a thick layer of gravel over clay, helping Calon Segur wines exhibit both power and finesse. The grapes are hand harvested, and the wine is aged up to 20 months in new and used barrels. We give it three bones.
Meadowcroft Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
Meadowcroft Winery is the namesake of owner Tom Meadowcroft.
Tom’s passion for wine stems from his experience growing up, working, and traveling in Europe and the Untied States. Early in life he began his journey in winemaking by working a harvest in Bordeaux in 1979. Following that harvest, he studied at UC Davis and Napa College, graduating with a degree in Viticulture and Enology. After earning his degrees, Tom worked in both Napa and Washington State as a Vineyard Manager, focusing on sustainable farming practices and environmental advocacy. Throughout his career, Tom has managed dozens of properties in Napa and Sonoma, all along instilling core principles relating to wine cultivation; from the growing of the vines to what goes in the bottle as an end result. These experiences are what inspired his vision for Meadowcroft Winery, that he proudly produces today, along with his executive winemaker Petar Kirilov. This wine has a rich and compelling nose of blackberry, black cherry, vanilla and subtle notes of pine. Lots of structure with brambly black fruits, blueberry and minerality, the finish is lengthy and layered. We give it three bones.
Cuvelier Los Andes Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendoza, Argentina is a beautiful expression of what Cabernet can do in the high elevation and rocky soil of the Andes Mountains. The story begins in 1804 when Henri Cuvelier set out to share his great passion for fine wine with his friends residing in the north of France. He created H Cuvelier and Fils, whose success continued throughout the 19th century. Many French Chateau were purchased by the family, including Chateau Le Crock in 1903, Chateau Camensac in 1912 and Chateau Leoville Poyferre in 1920. It’s interesting to note that in 1914, Paul Cuvelier visited Argentina to discover the wines of Mendoza himself. In 1946 the family group had Max Cuvelier create a second fine wine merchant based in Bordeaux. The company has since flourished around the world. In 1998 Bertrand Cuvelier accompanied the famous “flying winemaker” Michel Rolland to Argentina with the joint aim of building a winery and producing fine wines worthy of the family name. From the Valle de Uco this complex Cab shows bright, intense color, with aromas of dark berries and spice, and flavors of black fruit and cocoa, with lingering vanilla on the long finish. We give it three bones.
Caiarossa Toscana Rosso is the purest expression of this family’s vineyards in Tuscany, Italy, where Cabernet and Sangiovese combine with a few other varietals to make a world renowned “Super Tuscan“ wine of superior quality. The company logo is represented by an ancient clay head of Etruscan origin representing the Greek God of wine Dionysus, dating from the fourth century BC. The name Caiarossa is an homage to the soil, which is characterized by jasper, rock and pebbles. The grapes are grown, and the wine is produced organically using biodynamic practices. The nose exhibits black fruit, exotic spice, tar and sweet licorice, the flavors are floral and spice, lavender and sage, followed by intense black mission fig and black cherry. The 14 months in barrel show with a lengthy finish of subtle oak. We give it three bones.
We have learned, the varietal does exude its sense of place, its terroir, but the heart of a Cabernet Sauvignon, black fruit and tannin makes it a king for pairing with red meat. Whether you are firing up the grill and throwing some burgers on to give Dad the day off, or perhaps ordering some nice steaks from a favorite local place, we can help you find a King Cab for Dad that fits your budget and taste. Happy Father’s Day from all of us here at Ed’s Fine Wines.
By CRBrown
A MOTHER’S DAY POEM BY CAROLYN BROWN
Oh, Mother dear, what would you say, if I bought you a bottle of the finest rose’
The one from Bandol, in Provence, that can age
All the wine critics say, it’s quite the rage
Or Mother dear, would you prefer some fine bubbles from Champagne so rare
Oh the Yellen Rose’ by Herbert Beaufort, or Francois Dubois Brut, if you care
Perhaps my dear Mother, it’s a white wine you crave
South African Chenin is a brand new fave
The critics all say it’s the new summer splash
To enjoy by the pool without paying much cash
Our friends on the other side of the world
Are making Sauvignon Blanc boasting kiwi and lime
You might enjoy “The Better Half” it’s great for summertime
When you’re done with your nails, and finished the spa day
We’ll hand you a grand Burgundy made from Chardonnay
Or if you want red, we’ve got mellow cherry, something light
A beautiful Pinot Noir from Oregon’s Bethel Heights
If its Cab that is king, then Mom is the queen
So a Merlot from Napa would set the right scene
but not from a celeb and not just a fad
A boutique with estate fruit isn’t too bad
Hendry Ranch has been farming for 85 years
The flavor and ratings will bring about cheers
Oh Mother of mothers, you’re simply the best
And we know you probably just need a rest
But on this day we celebrate you
A mixed case of selections from Ed’s should do!
Here are a few examples of the fine wines mentioned above to celebrate Mom or just enjoy. All are available to order or could be on our shelves or fine wine room- ask us! We’re here to help.
La Bastide Blanche Rose’ Bandol, Provence is among the top producers in all of France. A blend of Mourvèdre, Cinsault, Grenache and Clairette, hand harvested (as is required in this Appellation). Mouthwatering aromas of strawberries and cream on the nose, the refined palate features distinct melon and peach flavors. The clay-limestone soil lends to texture and character on the finish. We give it three bones.
Herbert Beaufort Yllen Grand Cru Brut Rose’ is our top choice to impress Mom this Mother’s Day. Herbert Beaufort winery dates back to the 6th century and the lands of Bouzy, near Reims, in Champagne, France. 100% Pinot Noir, the current release is made from the base year of 2014. There are cherries and rhubarb and rye bread on the nose, with luscious flavors of the same. This Champagne will age many years, we hope Mom will too! We give it three bones.
Francois Dubois Champagne dates back to the historical property of his family near Reims since 1764. The Pur Rose’ is an assemblage of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier, the light copper color and ample nose of orange zest reveal a palate of fresh red fruits and great efflorescence. We give it three bones.
Babylonstoren Chenin Blanc (often referred to as “Steen” in South Africa) shows tropical fruits and melon, elegant and refreshing with flavors of pineapple, and gooseberries. The wine is fruit driven, with a slightly acidic finish. The winery is renowned for its gardens, restaurant and hotel, and of course, groundbreaking world class wine from Stellenbosch, South Africa. We give it three bones.
The Better Half Sauvignon Blanc is named in jest for the husband of New Zealand’s most famous winemaker, Jules Taylor. Jules, having tenured nearly a decade at the famous Kim Crawford winery under the tutelage of Kim, himself, later planted a few rows on her own. She and husband George eventually broke out on their own and began production of their own label. George produces a totally different style from the Jules Taylor wines, labeled “the better half” with more kiwi and less grapefruit, and a mellow acidic finish. We give it three bones.
Chateau de la Greffiere Macon La Roche Vineuse Villes Vignes Blanc is an affordable answer to drinking white Burgundy from France. Mom will love this Chardonnay from the Maconnais with aromas of hazelnut and bright peach. The Chateau uses some new oak integrated with used barrels which gives the wine a touch of spice and richness, with traditional flavors of pear. The Chateau, since 1924, has had four successive generations of the Greauzard family vinify the different local soils and appellations. Located in the La Roche Vineuse area of Macon, the hilly landscape is in southern Burgundy. We give it three bones.
Bethel Height Pinot Noir This winery originated in 1977 born from two families who fell in love with the walnut groves and south facing slopes, and dreamed of making wine. The Casteel and Dudleys did it all for the first twenty years, from farming to marketing, and to this day, don’t produce more than 13,000 cases of their boutique wines annually.
The wine is blended from famous vineyard sites, Justice and Lewman, showing youthful expression of fruit yet brooding, earthy complexity. The Willamette Valley in Oregon is world famous for the best of the best of American Pinot Noir- Wine Spectator says “expressive raspberry and red plum flavors laced with black tea, forest floor and hints of mineral.” The tannins are medium and the finish is divine, they give it 93 points, we give this wine three bones!
Hendry Ranch Merlot Napa Valley The Hendry family has been farming the same land in Napa since 1939. With over 70 vintages the Hendry Ranch has 114 acres situated in the hills north and west of the town of Napa. All Hendry wines are made from grapes grown on the estate. Through the subtle use of oak, and restraint in ripeness, the wines are made to express the vineyard terroir. This Merlot is big and juicy, grown in the benchlands to the west with thin, stony, clay soil. The San Pablo Bay morning fog and strong afternoon breezes assure the perfect climate at 300’ elevation. Grandson George Hendry still actively participates in grape selection. This vintage Merlot expresses a deep purple and ruby color with hints of blue fruit and soft oak. Pretty herbal accents followed by brighter cola, raisin and spice. A gentle and velvety finish. We give it three bones.
To all the Moms – enjoy your day, you’re the best of the best, Happy Mother’s Day from all of us here at Ed’s Fine Wines.
By CRBrown
Passover and Easter Blog
WINES TO CELEBRATE EASTER AND PASSOVER
Whether it’s Kosher wines for Passover or picking the perfect wines to pair with your Easter meal, we’re here to help at Ed’s. These holy holidays most often come with the tradition of sharing a meal with family and friends, and sharing wine. What does “Kosher for Passover” actually mean in terms of wine? There is a legend that Kosher wines are blessed by a rabbi, which is incorrect. There are strict guidelines for the handling and supervision of Kosher and Mevushal wines and many of the products used for winemaking; including yeasts and sugars must all be certified as Kosher. The main difference between Kosher and Mevushal lies in the handling of the wine. To be considered Kosher, Sabbath observant Jews must be the only ones to supervise and often handle the actual process of winemaking. A wine is considered Mevushal – basically boiled or cooked, that can then be used or handled or served by non-Jews.
Kosher wine is made in the same way as non-kosher wine with the exception of the “cooking”. In a process called flash pasteurization, the wine is heated to the boiling point for a split second, rarely affecting the flavor or quality of the wine- this is the “boiling” to make it Mevushal and allowed to be served by non Jews. In the Passover holiday, the Seder meal historically required 4 cups of wine to be served.
Many of the foods we eat every day are Kosher and the only way to tell is a little R with a circle around it on the packaging. There is no difference other than the supervision or handling of the product by a Sabbath observant. The Passover Seder itself is a holiday dinner that kicks off eight Days of Observance in the Jewish Faith. Oftentimes, in preparing foods for Passover, cleaning out the kitchen gets rid of products made from grains or wheats- to commemorate the Exodus of Egypt, where Israelites left in such haste they didn’t have time to let their bread rise. This is why Matzah is a central part of the Seder. Whether you celebrate Passover or you’re a guest at a Seder, expect spring salads, traditional briskets, healthy roasted chicken or lamb, and vegetables, with potato sides. Traditional dishes could also include Kugle, a noodle casserole, dishes made with dried fruits, and Passover desserts like macaroons or coconut cookies made without flour.
You most certainly can enjoy any Kosher wines on your Easter table, which is often set with foods like roasted leg of lamb, traditional smoked ham, grilled salmon, roast beef and potatoes, and of course- the Easter eggs! Whether you’re celebrating the rise of Christ for Easter, or the freedom of the Israelites, or just welcoming the Easter bunny and enjoying a great dinner, we’ve got a wine for that! The challenge is to find a wine that will go with all of the different tastes on the table. Here’s a few suggestions for either celebration.
Try starting out with a wonderful Lambrusco from Italy for your Easter guests. Cantina di Carpi e Sorbara “Emma” Lambrusco (we just refer to it as Emma) is an off dry, fruity sparkler vibrant and elegant, produced in the heart of the Emilia Romagna region of Italy. A great way to kick off the day with deviled eggs and shrimp cocktail or a charcuterie platter, with this dark rose’ bubbles. We give it three bones.
On the Kosher side, Cantina Gabriele Moscato is Kosher, Mevushal with just enough sweetness to enjoy as an aperitif or with those macaroons at the end of the meal. Slight effervescence, a touch of apricot and tropical fruit in a pretty blue bottle. We give it two bones.
Seafood courses and light eating scream for light whites. A traditional New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, Skyleaf, from the South Island of Marlborough shows tropical fruit and citrus, with soft acidity to pair with fish, the wine is understated in its grapefruit finish. We give it two bones.
Meadowcroft Pinot Noir from Sonoma is a perfect expression of what Pinot Noir from Anderson Valley should be. The meaning of Meadowcroft is a fertile field or meadow, and croft refers to a cultivated area that has been nurtured over time. Tom Meadowcroft and his family have been farming in Carneros using sustainable practices for over a decade. The wine is light in color and body, but still shows vibrant ruby tones, with aromas of baked cherry pie, flavors of red fruit, kola nuts, and a lush finish. This wine will pair well with smoked ham or seafood dishes. We give it three bones.
The Butcher’s Daughter Cotes du Rhone is well balanced with ripe red fruit on the nose, subtle pepper and spice, and soft tannins. Kosher for Passover, the Rhone blend of Syrah and Grenache work well with braised brisket for your Seder dinner.
The wine originated from when the daughter of one of Paris’ most famous butchers decided to open a restaurant and needed Kosher wines. We give it two bones.
Moving on to a heavier meal, the perfect “different” wine for an herb roasted leg of lamb or beef is Vina Maitia Weon Carignan produced in the Maule Valley, Chile. Trying an unordinary wine for Easter is fun for wine lovers and experimenters. Notes of blackberry, cinnamon and cedar, with a palate of dark fruit and mushrooms, food will only bring out the flavors in this varietal. Carignan is originally of Spanish origin and is used as a blending grape throughout France. Carignan grows well in the rich soils of Chile, and Vina Maitia uses only native yeast with organic practices. We give it three bones.
South Africa makes Kosher wine, too! Unorthodox Merlot/Cabernet blend offers up aromas of layered red fruit, with hints of vanilla and oak. This is another Kosher wine that could work for Passover dinner or your Easter table. The wine is produced under the auspices of Beth Din of South Africa and the Orthodox Union of the US. This full-bodied wine will pair perfectly with your comforting brisket. Unorthodox is a celebration of Jewish life. We give it three bones.
The Easter table could also benefit from a good old American Zinfandel. Pure and fruit forward with concentrated notes of dark cherry and blackberry,
Hullabaloo Zinfandel from California is a crowd pleaser. Six months in American oak, harvested from Old Vines it can be enjoyed with a slight chill, either on the patio, or at the dinner table. This wine is part of the same group that sources and makes Skyleaf mentioned above, with renowned woman winemaker Molly Lippit at the helm. We give it three bones.
Look for these wines at our Friday night tastings and don’t forget to stock up for the upcoming holy holidays. Shalom.
By CRBrown
WOMEN IN WINE
March is a month dedicated to the celebration of Women’s History, and women have played no small role in wine and viticulture. Globally, 82% of winemakers are male, with just 18% women taking on the role. Historical records show women were involved in the winemaking process dating back to Mesopotamia, and in medieval European times. Women, generally worked the family gardens, preserved family recipes and passed down winemaking and grape growing techniques. In the 1800’s the Widow Clicquot is credited with revolutionizing the production of sparkling wine. Madame Clicquot, Barbe-Nicole Ponsardin, took on her husband’s wine business when widowed at the age of 27. In the early 19th Century, the Napoleonic Code denied women civil and political rights, preventing them from working, voting, entering university or earning money, without the consent of their husband or father. During this time, widows were the only French women allowed to work outside the home. It is written that Clicquot first had to convince her father-in-law as an apprentice, thus becoming known as “the Grande Dame of Champagne” she is credited with the discovery of riddling, creating the first vintage Champagne 1818, and a blending method known as saignee’.
In 1840 Hannah Elizabeth Rabbe was born in Indiana. She later became the second wife of John C Weinberger. The two began a fruit and nursey business in Ohio and later purchased a few acres from Charles Krug in Napa Valley in 1869. They immediately built a two and half-story stone masonry winery and began planting grapes. Tragically, JC was murdered in 1882 in an attempt to defend his daughter from the unwanted affections of a winery employee. Hannah not only took over the winery, she then took over her husband’s job as director of the Bank of St Helena. At a time when women could not vote, and were often discouraged from working, Hannah became a pioneer in Napa Valley, increasing the wineries production, and winning a silver medal for her Cabernet Sauvignon bottling at the World’s Fair (where much of the competition was made by French men). Hannah Weinberger was one of the first great American winemakers.
In 1859, 27 years before she was born, Isabelle Simi’s family moved from Montepulciano, Italy to San Francisco, CA, and then north to Healdsburg in 1890 in search of gold. Brothers Giuseppe and Pietro failed to find the treasure, but instead, farmed the land as their family had in Italy, with grapes. They ran the Alexander Valley winery until tragedy struck and both brothers died from the flu. Giuseppe’s daughter Isabelle took over the operations in 1904. Isabelle is credited for a number of “firsts” including the first public tasting room, opened in 1934. She created a stone cellar for proper temperature storage and used the gravity flow of juice to ferment tanks, selling her wines from the cellar floor! Isabelle was also a promoter of women in wine with her hire of winemaker Mary Ann Graf, the first woman to graduate with a degree in Oenology in California in 1973. Later she hired Zelma Long, one of California’s most prominent winemakers at the time, who modernized the facility, increased production, and brought national acclaim. Today Simi continues to be led by a team of women.
Women have been evolving in their roles in the wine world, traditionally an all-male craft- Jancis Robinson, an English winemaker who went on to become a famous wine critic and author, broke through barriers to have her voice heard in the 1970’s. Here are just a few other great women in wine.
Rosa Kruger became another famous for her work in farming sustainably, agricultural biodiversity and setting new environmental standards for the industry. Rosa worked in South African viticulture in the 1970’s.
Sarah Marquis of Mollydooker in Australia created and employs the “Marquis Vineyards water program” an irrigation technique that enhances grape flavors and aromas. The Mollydooker line of wines are famous for their bold ripeness.
Elena Walch is a pioneer in Alto Adige, Italy with a commitment to sustainable viticulture, along with Arianna Occhipinti in Sicily.
Heidi Peterson Barrett famous for her many 100 point scoring wines grew up in a winemaking family in Napa. Her father was Dick Peterson. She graduated from UC Davis, and became the winemaker at Buehler Vineyards by the age of 25. Heidi had successful winemaking stints at Paradigm and Screaming Eagle, Grace, Hartwell, Barrett and Barrett, and is still at it today with her cult classic La Sirena.
Kathryn Hall Since her family first purchased a vineyard in CA in the 1970’s, Kathryn and her brother managed the family vineyard from 1981-1992 selling grapes to other wineries, as well as producing Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon under the WALT label. She continues to produce WALT and is co-proprietor of HALL with her husband Craig. Kathryn’s career began as an assistant attorney in Berkely, where she has long been committed to issues like social services and mental health. Hall’s estate vineyards encompass more than 500 acres with tasting rooms in St Helena and Rutherford. Today HALL wines are under the artisan-ship of Megan Gunderson and continue to set new heights for Napa Valley wine production.
Helen Keplinger In addition to Keplinger and Vermillion, Helen Keplinger has a long history in California wine. She attended UC Davis and worked under Heidi Barrett and Kathy Joseph at Fiddlehead before moving to Spain to make wine in Priorat.
Helen Turley is a pioneering American winemaker and consultant, known for decades as a cult classic winemaker for boutique wineries such as Marcassin, Pahlmeyer, Bryant Family, Martinelli, and eventually her own label at Turley Wine Cellars. She was one of the first to use a cold soak process, harvesting phenolically ripe fruit to make the wine as natural as possible, and ushered in the era of the super consultant in California winemaking.
Jules Taylor The pre-emanant winemaker of New Zealand, Jules literally grew up in Sauvignon Blanc. A local girl to Marlborough, Jules attained a degree in Oenology and Viticulture and after a few years of ”life affirming vintages” in Italy, she spent several years as a winemaker, and later a consultant winemaker to New Zealand’s largest winery- 8 years at Kim Crawford. In 2001, Jules and her husband George decided to quit their corporate winemaking jobs and strike out on their own. They now produce award winning boutique wines from New Zealand, farmed by hand on their own land under the Jule Taylor label.
Molly Lippitt Before striking out on her own, Molly spent 15 years working alongside many of the aforementioned winemakers, honing her craft both in the vineyards and cellar. Molly has been working with the many wineries at Nine North Company since 2012, consulting for brands such as Chasing Lions, Twenty Bench, The Bomb, Parcel 41 and Hullabaloo. This group of California wineries make varietals true to their heritage and terroir, and Nine North is celebrating Molly all month long in March for her contribution to women in wine and the wine industry. Chasing Lions varietals have all recently received over 90 points from Wine Enthusiast, and Twenty Bench Cabernet Sauvignon just garnered a score of 92 points and a Best Buy, sourced from the highest quality fruit on Sonoma and Napa.
Many of these award-winning wines are available on our shelves here at Ed’s or available to special order, and we will be featuring many of these women winemakers at our Friday night tastings all through March. Cheers to the women who continue to contribute to the wine industry!
See you soon.
By CRBrown
The History of Chateuneuf du Pape (CDP)
The literal translation of Chateauneuf du Pape is “the Pope’s New Castle” in reference to the castle built by Pope John XXII in the 14th Century. The castle was a summer residence for the popes who lived in Avignon. The name comes from Latin “Castro” which was used in the 11th century describing a “fortified village”. Du Pape was added in the late 1800’s to refer to its religious history.
Religion has played a key role in viticulture, for instance, the early Romans had Bacchus, and the Greeks with Dionysus; credited with creating what we currently enjoy as table wine. In Biblical times wine was consumed as part of the “everyday diet”, for celebrations, and as a symbol of blessing. The Catholic church has, throughout history, kept wine alive. In scripture in the Old and New Testament there are references to vineyards, grapes and wine. There is even a reference to Noah getting drunk on wine he had made after the flood! Jesus feasted and turned water into wine, and wine is used by the church for communion and other holy celebrations and sacrifices.
Bishops are credited with saving vineyards after the fall of the Roman Empire, among their many other miracles. The Cistern Monks produced wine, and the creation of the great Champagne Dom Perignon is credited to a French Benedictine Monk. Jesuits are credited with bringing their “mission wine grapes” to California from Mexico, and we all know how many California wineries survived Prohibition with the loopholes of the 18th amendment making viticulture for religious purposes legal.
The Avignon Papacy move from Rome to France had just a little bit to do with the quality of French grapes, specifically those grown in the CDP region.
At the time, wine growing around Avignon was not illustrious, however, the popes advanced the reputation of the area, which had been a viticultural area the Bishops maintained for the church, and mostly local consumption. The keys and the crown emblem – the symbol of the coat of arms of the Holy See, which is the government of the Catholic church under the pope, is often embossed into the glass of wine bottles produced in Chateauneuf du Pape.
The village sits in the south of the Rhone Valley, bordering Provence. The AOC or Appellation d’Origine Controlee was established in 1936 as France’s first AOC.
There were only 13 varietals originally permitted to be grown and used in the wine, but this has since expanded to 18. The permitted reds include Syrah, Cinsault, Grenache Noir, Counoise, Mourvedre, Muscardin, Piquepoul Noir, Terret Noir, and Vaccarese. The whites and “pinks” are Bourboulenc, Clairette Blanche, Clairette Rose, Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, Piquepoul Blanc, Piquepoul Gris, Picardan, and Roussanne. The soil is unique, with large, rolled pebbles mixed with red, sandy clay- which release the heat they store during the day to the vines at night. The climate is hot and dry with the famous Mistral winds that blow 130 days a year, and the vines are typically bushy, known as garrigue, on shallow soils. The wines emit earthy tones and tart flavors unique to the region. Winemakers have complete freedom to process any of the varietals as they see fit, though the usual blend is made from mostly Grenache Noir, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, and Syrah. The traditional CDP, as it is known, can age for decades, however, many of the more modern highly alcoholic CDP produced can be rich and wonderful in their youth, only to disappoint years later.
Here at Ed’s we carry a few CDP on the shelf and are able to order from some of the most boutique producers. Let us know!
Domaine Raymond Usseglio Chateauneuf Du Pape Founded in 1963, the Usseglio family has Italian roots dating back to Piedmonte. Grandfather Francis left Italy for France in 1931. After more than 15 years of working the fields, in 1948 he succeeded in operating a sharecropping farm with his wine. In 1962 Terres Blanches terroir was planted and in 1963 Raymond took over with his wife Danielle. The Domain covers 15 hectares with 50 to 60 year old vines in CDP. They practice both organic and biodynamic farming, believing every bottle is an expression of the earth and their meticulous practices. A blend of mostly Grenache Noir with a small amount of Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault and Counoise sourced from the four main terroirs of the appellation-sands, sandstone, clay/limestone and the famous rounded pebbles. 80% of the blend is aged in concrete with the remainder aging in oak. Ripe red cherry and raspberry fruits blend with spicy notes of black pepper and licorice. Full bodied with a silky texture. This wine should be decanted and will age gracefully. We give it three bones.
Chateua Maucoil Chateueuf du Pape Vines were planted in what we now know as Chateau Maucoil in the 1600’s. Today, 36.5 hectares are used for CDP production, managed by a negotiant. Certified biodynamic, the wine is 60% Grenache Noir, 15% Syrah, 12% Mourvedre, 8% Cinsault, with various other approved varietals in the blend, aged for 12 months in oak barrels before bottling. We give it two bones.
Fontaines des Papes Made from 50% Grenache Noir, 40% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre this wine had a complex nose of plum and black cherry. With hints of cocoa and cloves. Owned by the Jaume family, we give it two bones.
Mathieu Jerome SAJE Chateauneuf du Pape The Mathieu family is one of the oldest in the village, dating back to the 1600’s, however, the Domain was founded in 2015. SAJE is an abbreviation of the names of Jerome, and his wife and son. It’s also a play on words, as the French word for sage, which means the same in English, to be wise. Jerome inherited 9.5 hectares (about 23 acres) and plants all 13 original permitted varietals. There is diversity in terroir and grape variety that shines through in his bottlings. The wine is mostly Grenache Noir with only around 1300 cases produced annually – a nod to tradition. The wine should be decanted and will age. Provencal herbs and spice with bright cranberry and cherry fruit, with a biting tannic finish. We give it three bones.
Matteo Pictor Pape Rich in style with bold black fruits, this biodynamic winery was founded in 1967. The Chateau is located in the hills of the Lirac across from CDP. The wines are often praised for their depth of complexity, aromatic intensity and silky tannins. Black raspberry and candied lavender. This wine is best enjoyed now. We give it two bones.
If you’ve never had the pleasure of experiencing this unique wine from this special area, stop in and we will find one for you. Cheers to the wines of the Pope!
By CRBrown
