BONNY DOON WINERY
If you have been a wine connoisseur since the early days of California wineries becoming popular, you probably have heard of Bonny Doon, and maybe even their infamous winemaker, Randall Grahm. Randall is best known for his pioneering work with Rhone varietals in California, and for popularizing the use of screw cap closures on premium wines. Bonny Doon (the name of the town near Santa Cruz) Winery was created by Grahm in 1982. After some attempts at creating Burgundian style wines in California, Kermit Lynch, a famous California wine importer and Rhone Champion had introduced Grahm to Rhone style wines. Back in the late 70’s and early 80’s only two wineries were growing Syrah in California. Grahm realized he would have more success creating distinctive wines using Rhone varietals in the Central Coast region. He did, and they were well received.
On April 1,1989 Grahm appeared on the cover of Wine Spectator – masked, in a blue costume and cape, with a horse, as a bit of an April Fool’s joke- however, “The Rhone Ranger” nickname stuck with him. Rhone Rangers became a movement that consists of a series of winemakers and vineyards planted to these varietals, in California, for almost 40 years.
In 1984 Bonny Doon released the inaugural vintage of Le Cigare Volant, an homage to Chateuneuf du Pape, and this wine continues to be the winery’s flagship brand. The premier release referenced an obscure French law enacted in 1945 by the tiny French town synonymous with these varietals. The law prohibited the use of flying cigars (saucers) around the town’s numerous vineyards. At the time there were believed to be UFOs in the area. The artwork on the label remains today, and there is even a drawing of Graham’s face hidden in the “cigar”, and signature “aliens”.
A pioneer for screw cap closures, in October of 2002, Grahm staged an industry changing “funeral” for the cork at Grand Central Station in New York City. The corpse was a figure made of corks, in a coffin, laid out before the crowd, while famous English wine writer, Jancis Robinson delivered the eulogy. M Thierry Bouchon – the French word for corkscrew (1585-2002) was laid to rest as a group of mourners marched all in black, to a trade dinner featuring 33 Rhone varietals produced in California, all in screw cap closures. The New York City Funeral for the Cork and the obituary- stating the cork had died after a long illness with “toxin 2,4,6-thrichloranisole implicated in his demise” made Bonny Doon’s founder a California wine iconoclast.
It wasn’t all smooth sailing for Randall Grahm- there were pests and diseases (Phylloxera destroyed much of his Santa Cruz vineyards) so Grahm decided to buy fruit and began mass producing what became very well-known wines; Pacific Rim Riesling, Big House and Cardinal Zin. In 2006 Grahm sold off these popular, commercial success labels in order to focus on the vineyards and labels of Bonny Doon in Santa Cruz. He replanted Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. Grahm has always been someone to experiment, but he was never a fan of high alcohol wines, or as he referred to many California wines “grotesquely overripe”. In one experiment Grahm threw rocks in with the barrels while his wine aged to see if there would be an influence on the flavor. Some experiments he says turned out “quite obnoxious” while others were” interesting”. He never introduced the practice or offered any of the experimental rock wines for sale.
Grahm fostered a new brand of marketing with his labels- a mash up of type fonts and stream of consciousness writing and illustrations. He is still quite the character, producing high scoring boutique wines.
Bonny Doon Picpoul
Picpoul is an ancient white wine variety believed to have originated in the Rhone Valley. Randall Grahm’s Bonny Doon is the largest domestic producer of this wine. Picpoul translates to “lip stinger” with its bracing acidity and zip, it also features fruit flavors of pineapple and aromas of white flowers. This vintage has a small amount of Vermentino blended in. 91 points from Wine Enthusiast magazine, we give it three bones.
Bonny Doon Le Cigare Blanc white
A blend of 73% Vermentino, 23% Grenache Blanc, and 4% Clairette Blanche shows aromas of tropical fruit, flavors of pineapple, lime, mango and pine tree, with a hint of wet stone. We gave it three bones, and WE gave it 91 points.
Bonny Doon Vin Gris de Cigare rose’
This wine literally sat on the skins for just under an hour- so the color is so delicate pink, made from 50% Cinsault, 43% Grenache, 5% Clairette Blanche, 2% Mourvèdre. An elegant dry rose’, Grahm has made this wine since 1983. Strawberry, peach and guava notes, hints of white pepper, with a creaminess and length on the finish. Awarded 92 points from Wine Enthusiast, we give it three bones.
Bonny Doon Le Cigare Volant red blend
This flagship Rhone varietals blend since 1984 combines 65% Grenache, 18% Syrah, 5% Cinsault and 7% Petite Sirah. Bold red fruit, yet light on the palate, rose petal and red currant essence, aged in stainless steel with a touch of oak at finish. Another 93 points from WE, we give it three bones.
Bonny Doon Le Cigare Orange
The Orange Muscat is a relatively obscure grape varietal that lends the bright orange zest aromatics and a touch of sweetness to this wine. Fermenting on the skins, not adding any “correcting chemicals” or preservatives is a trendy wine style at the moment- even though it’s been around for thousands of years! Aromas of apricot, citrus and tangerine blossom. Bright and refreshing with flavors of peach, apricot and citrus peel, a blend of 40% Grenache Gris, 40% Grenache Blanc, 10% Grenache, 10% Orange Muscat.. Bonny Doon’s Le Cigare Orange is a perfect entry level wine for anyone looking to try out the Orange wine style-We give it three bones.
ALL the Bonny Doon wines are made using Organic, Biodynamic and sustainable practices. Come on by and try some of these hand crafted, low production special wines from the original Rhone Ranger, Randall Grahm.
BY CRBrown
