BEAUJOLAIS
The history of Beaujolais wine growing dates back to the Romans who planted vines in the region back in the 7th century. Through the middle ages the Benedictine monks handled most of the viticulture there. In the 15th century the Lords of Beaujeu ceded the region to the Duchy of Burgundy. The AOC -Appellation d’Origine Controlee Beaujolais is the very southern tip of Burgundy. The Gamay grape is known to be a cross between Pinot Noir and Gouais, where the grape grew prolifically with thicker skins and earlier ripening than Pinot Noir. In 1395 the Duke of Burgundy Phillip the Bold outlawed the cultivation of Gamay, believing the entire region should be producing the more elegant Pinot Noir. Sixty years later, Phillipe the Good rescinded the edict, and at that point the Gamay grape had been pushed so far south to Beaujolais, where it thrived in the granite soils. This is how Beaujolais became a permanent institution of southern Burgundy. We like to look for the small, hands on, crafty producers who offer site specific interpretations of the terroir to show in their wines.
The Beaujolais Cru regions are Julienas, Saint Amour, Chenas, Moulin A Vent, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Regnie, Cote de Brouilly, Brouilly.
Bordered by Burgundy to the north, the Saone River to the east, and Lyon to the south, most of the Beaujolais wines are produced using a method of semi carbonic maceration. This method highlights the fruit flavors of the grape. The grapes are harvested, then whole clusters are placed in the vat or tank. The weight of the grapes themselves then leads to juice extraction. When the juice comes into contact with the native yeast on the skins (from the whole clusters) the juice starts to ferment causing carbon dioxide, CO2. The vat is then covered and the grapes pop, or explode, due to lack of oxygen. After a few days of maceration, the juice is separated (first press, or “free run juice”) and then the skins are pressed, and the juice is combined. This is the basic winemaking formula for all of Beaujolais. Remember, French labels show the region and not the grape variety, which is Gamay. Here is a rundown of the most popular Crus.
Beaujolais Village AOP is a “Protected” appellation, the wines exhibit a mineral flavor with red fruits, strawberry and currants. Beaujolais Village wines are deliciously fruity with an aromatic nose of red berries. Lovely, fresh and affordable, but not a “Cru”- from a specific Village.
Morgon is one of the ten Cru Beaujolais, and the wines here tend to be denser with dark cherry fruit flavors. Often an extended maceration period gives the wine more body.
Fleurie offers an intense crimson color and expresses a range of fruity and floral characteristics.
Moulin A Vent gives off a color from dark garnet to deep ruby red. The fruit and floral flavors are intense, dominated by violets, with dark cherries. The wine is tannic, yet subtly spicy, with a complex, velvety finish.
Cote de Brouilly is a lovely garnet color with delicious apricot and plum flavors. The region’s soils are made up of dark blue green schist, giving the wines great finesse. Cote de Brouilly wines are earthy and tannic, yet elegant and soft.
Daniel Bouland is considered the “godfather of Morgon”- one of the greatest producers of old-fashioned Gamay from less than seven hectares of old vines. He bottles single vineyard Gamay from Cote de Brouilly, Morgon, and Chiroubles, specifically from Douby, Cote de Py, Lieux of Morgon. Most of his vineyards are 60 to 80 years old, he uses “old school” methods to produce wines that will age up to 20 years in bottle. These organically tended vines produce wines with structure and purity, comparable to high end Burgundies. Daniel practices “lutte raisonnee” minimizing chemicals in the vineyards, crushes full cluster and does not filter. Daniel is fourth generation in Beaujolais, his family established themselves in Beaujolais in 1814, the Bouland name itself is local to the region. He is a humble vigneron who likes to work alone and works very hard, often 12 hours a day tending his vines. The grapes are hand harvested, as the steep slopes don’t allow for mechanics, everything must be done by hand. The juice is fermented with the stems or whole cluster and then set to age in foudres, or large, old wooden barrels, as well as cement tanks. In 2014 he acquired another old vines parcel Bellevue, which consists of granite and schist. His wines have a feverish cult following in France, so allocations for the US are small. We are fortunate to have some!
Daniel Bouland Cuvee Melanie Cotes de Brouilly
Named after Daniel’s daughter, this wine is grown on 70 year old vines of schist and granite derived soil with blue diorite on the southern slope of Mont Brouilly. Aged in oak foudres, the wine is rich, dark purple with dark plum flavors, black currant and chocolate. There are herbaceous notes and a distinctive minerality on the finish. We hope to have more wines from Daniel Bouland in the future. We love this wine for the holiday table as it makes a perfect pairing for all the different foods that make up a traditional turkey dinner but also compliments a roasted leg of lamb or standing rib roast. We give it a Brunello rating of three bones.
Cheers to the holidays and may all good things come in the New Year.
Salud!
By CRBrown
